Doctor of Motors

What Repair Shops Do With Used Oil After an Oil Change

Thu, 30 Apr 2026 18:15:57 GMT

All drivers know old engine oil has to come out during an oil change, but not many think about where it goes after that. Once the drain plug is tightened and fresh oil is in the engine, the dirty oil seems like yesterday’s problem. It is not. That used oil still has to be handled carefully, stored correctly, and sent through the right process afterward.

There is a good reason shops take that part seriously. Used motor oil is not just messy waste. It is a material that can cause environmental problems if dumped carelessly, but it can also be recovered and reused when handled properly.

Why Used Oil Has To Be Handled Carefully

Used engine oil is no longer clean enough to keep protecting an engine the way it should. By the time it is drained, it may contain carbon, metal particles, moisture, fuel residue, and other contamination picked up during normal driving. That makes it unsuitable for continued engine use without further processing.

It also makes disposal more important than many drivers realize. Pouring used oil onto the ground, into a storm drain, or into regular trash is a bad idea because even a small amount can contaminate soil and water. Repair shops know that part of an oil change does not end when the oil leaves the engine.

How Shops Store Used Oil After An Oil Change

Once the oil is drained from the vehicle, shops typically transfer it to a designated used-oil container or tank. That storage system is designed to safely hold the oil until it can be picked up and processed. The goal is to prevent spills, leaks, and cross-contamination with other fluids.

Good shop practices matter here. Used oil should not be mixed carelessly with coolant, brake fluid, solvents, or other chemicals because contamination can affect what can be done with it later. Keeping the oil separated is part of doing the job properly from start to finish.

Where Used Motor Oil Usually Goes Next

In many cases, used motor oil is collected by a licensed recycling or waste-handling service. From there, it is often sent to a facility for cleaning, refining, or processing for another approved use. That means the oil is not always sent for disposal as many people imagine.

Re-refining is one of the more useful outcomes because it allows used oil to be processed into a usable lubricant again. In other situations, it may be treated and used for industrial purposes where regulations allow. Either way, the key point is simple: responsible handling keeps the oil from becoming pollution and gives it a chance to be put to work again.

What Happens To The Old Oil Filter

The filter matters too. A used oil filter still holds dirty oil even after the drain is complete, so it must be handled with care, just like the oil itself. Shops generally collect old filters separately and send them through the proper recycling stream.

That process can include draining the remaining oil and recycling the metal housing. It is one more reason an oil change is more involved than it may look from the waiting room. Several materials come out of the vehicle, and each needs the right next step.

Why Proper Oil Handling Is Part Of Professional Service

Drivers sometimes think of an oil change as one of the simplest things a shop does. On the surface, that is fair. Drain the old oil, install a new filter, refill the engine, and you are done. Behind the scenes, though, there is more responsibility attached to the service.

A professional shop is not just changing oil. It is also making sure the used materials are handled, stored, and moved correctly afterward. That part may not be visible to the customer, but it still reflects the quality of the work. It is part of why regular maintenance at a reputable shop tends to be more dependable than a quick, careless change.

Why Drivers Should Never Dump Used Oil At Home

For drivers who change their own oil, the same rules still apply. Used oil should never be dumped into the yard, a drain, or the trash. It needs to be collected in a proper container and taken to an approved recycling location or collection point.

That is one reason some vehicle owners decide that shop service is worth it even for basic oil changes. The work is cleaner, the used oil is handled correctly, and the car can get an inspection at the same time. Even when the oil change itself seems simple, the full process still deserves a careful approach.

Why Oil Changes Still Do More Than Most Drivers Think

Fresh oil protects the engine. That part is well known. What gets overlooked is that the service also helps remove contamination that has been circulating through the engine since the last visit. Once that used oil is removed, handling it responsibly is part of finishing the job right.

That is one more reason oil changes should not be delayed. Clean oil helps the engine, and proper used-oil handling helps protect everything outside the engine, too. Both parts count, even if only one of them is easy to see.

Get Oil Change Service In Chico, CA, With Doctor of Motors

If your vehicle is due for an oil change, Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA, can handle the service, properly dispose of used oil, and help keep your engine protected with the right maintenance schedule.

Bring it in when your next oil service is due so the job is done cleanly, correctly, and with the care your vehicle deserves.

What Makes Your Car Pull to One Side While Driving?

Fri, 27 Mar 2026 15:15:09 GMT

A car that pulls to one side can be subtle at first. You might catch yourself holding the steering wheel a little tighter or constantly nudging it back to center. Then you realize you are fighting the car on every straight road, and it starts getting old fast.

The cause is usually simple once you pin down the pattern.

Why A Car Pulls On Straight Roads

A true pull is when the car drifts to the same side on a reasonably flat, straight road without you steering it there. It is different from following grooves in the pavement or a windy day pushing you around. The tricky part is that a pull can come from tires, alignment angles, braking drag, or looseness in the steering and suspension.

Start by noticing when it began. If it started right after new tires, a rotation, or a pothole hit, that timing is not random. If it has been slowly getting worse over months, wear underneath becomes more likely.

Tire Pressure And Tire Construction Issues

Tire pressure is the quickest thing that can create a pull, even if it is only a few PSI off side-to-side on the same axle. Lower pressure increases rolling resistance, and the car will often drift toward the tire that is softer. This is why the pull can feel worse after a cold night and improve after the tires warm up.

Tires can also cause a pull even when pressures match. A tire with an internal belt shift or uneven stiffness can steer the car slightly, and the pull may change if the tires are rotated. If the pull began right after a tire change, do not ignore that clue, since a tire-related pull is common and easier to solve than chasing deeper issues.

Alignment And Road Crown Differences

Alignment angles determine how the tires meet the road and how the car naturally tracks. If the toe or camber is off, the car can drift, feel twitchy, or wear tires unevenly. Caster differences left to right can also create a steady pull, and it sometimes shows up more at highway speeds.

The road crown complicates things because many roads slope slightly to shed water. A mild drift on one road but not another can be the road, not the car. Still, if the car consistently pulls the same way on multiple roads, alignment needs to be on the short list.

Brake Drag That Feels Like A Pull

A sticking brake caliper can tug a car to one side, and it often gets worse the longer you drive. One wheel can run hotter, and you may notice a sharp odor after parking . Sometimes the pull is most noticeable during light braking, but a severe drag can pull even when you are not touching the pedal.

Brake drag also shortens pad and rotor life quickly. If the wheel on one side is coated in brake dust much faster than the other, that is another hint. We’ve seen drivers chase alignment repeatedly when the real issue was a caliper that was not releasing consistently.

Suspension And Steering Wear Points

Loose suspension parts can let a wheel change its angle slightly under load, which makes the car feel like it wanders or pulls. Tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, and strut mounts are common places for play to develop. You might notice the pull is worse over bumps or during quick lane changes.

A worn component can also make alignment hard to hold. You can align it perfectly, but then the angles shift again as the loose part moves. This is why a pull plus clunking noises or vague steering usually means the fix is not just an alignment adjustment.

Quick Checks Before You Schedule Service

You can gather useful information in a few minutes, and it helps narrow the cause without guessing. Keep the checks simple and focus on repeatable results, not one drive in strange conditions. If anything feels unsafe, especially at highway speed, do not keep testing it on the road.

Here are quick checks that are worth doing first:

Check tire pressures cold and compare left to right on the same axle
Drive briefly on a flat road and note whether the pull is constant or varies with road shape
Notice if braking makes the pull stronger or if it is the same while coasting
Feel for vibration or steering looseness over bumps that suggests wear underneath

This is also a good time to reflect on recent changes. If the pull started after tire work, that is valuable context. If it started after a pothole hit, it could be an angle shift or a bent wheel that needs attention during an inspection.

How We Confirm The Root Cause

The most reliable approach is verifying the basics first, then working outward. We check pressures and tire condition, then confirm whether the pull changes when tires are moved front to back or side to side. After that, we look at alignment readings and the condition of steering and suspension joints .

If the pull suggests brake drag, we check for uneven heat, pad wear patterns, and caliper slide movement. Regular maintenance helps prevent many pulls because it catches uneven tire wear and small looseness before they become obvious . Once the real cause is identified, the fix is usually straightforward and the car stops feeling like it has a mind of its own.

Get Wheel Alignment In Chico, CA, With Doctor of Motors

Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA, can pinpoint whether your pull is coming from tire issues, alignment angles, brake drag, or worn steering and suspension parts, then recommend the right fix based on what we find.

Book a visit and get back to driving straight with less effort.

What Does A Bad Wheel Bearing Sound Like At Speed?

Fri, 27 Feb 2026 14:45:17 GMT

You're cruising along at 45 or 60 mph, and a new noise starts creeping in. It is not loud enough to drown out the radio, but it is steady enough that you keep turning the volume down to listen. Then you change lanes, and the sound shifts slightly, almost like it's coming from a different corner of the car.

That is when most drivers start wondering if it is tires, brakes, or something worse.

The Classic Wheel Bearing Sound At Speed

A failing wheel bearing commonly makes a growl or hum that gets louder as speed increases. Some people describe it as a low airplane-like drone, others hear a rough grinding tone, but the key is that it tracks with road speed more than engine RPM. If you rev the engine in park and the sound does not change, that's a helpful clue. If you accelerate gently and the noise rises right along with speed, the bearing moves higher on the suspect list.

The sound can be subtle at first and easy to blame on the road surface. Over time, it may become louder and more consistent, especially on smooth pavement where other tire noise does not mask it. You may also notice a faint vibration in the steering wheel or seat, but not always. A lot of bad bearings start as sound before they become a feel.

Why It Changes When You Turn

A wheel bearing noise often changes during turns because the load shifts from side to side. When you turn left, the right-side bearings carry more weight. When you turn right, the left-side bearings get loaded more. If the noise gets louder in one direction and quieter in the other, that pattern can help point to the side that's worn.

It is not always a perfect on-off change, though. Some bearings are noisy under any load and only change slightly during steering input. The road crown can also trick you, since the car is constantly leaning a touch to one side. That is why we look at the whole pattern instead of one quick turn test.

Noises That Get Mistaken For A Wheel Bearing

Tires can sound a lot like bearings, especially if they are cupped, feathered, or worn unevenly. Tire noise is often a roar that changes with the road surface and sometimes with tire rotation if you move them front to back. A bearing noise is usually steadier across different pavement types, but there is an overlap. If the tires have visible uneven wear, it is smart to treat them as a potential culprit too.

A few other common look-alikes show up at speed as well:

Uneven tire wear that creates a rhythmic roar
Brake dust shield rubbing the rotor after a bump
Worn CV joint issues that click more in turns than in straight lines

Differential or transfer case noises that change under power and coast

These can sound similar from the driver's seat, which is why pinpointing the source is important before parts are replaced.

Simple Checks You Can Do Without Tools

Start with the easiest observation: does the noise change with engine RPM or only with vehicle speed? If it stays the same when you shift to neutral at speed, that leans away from the engine and toward the wheel-end, tire, or driveline. Also pay attention to lane changes and gentle turns, since load shifts are meaningful. If the noise disappears the moment you come off the throttle, that may suggest something other than a bearing.

When the vehicle is safely parked, look closely at the tires for scalloped wear or a saw-tooth feel across the tread blocks. A tire wearing unevenly can produce a sound that mimics a bearing almost perfectly. If you notice the steering wheel is slightly off-center or the car drifts, that might hint at alignment or suspension wear feeding tire noise. This is also a good moment to check pressures, because low pressure can amplify road noise and make the whole situation harder to read.

What Typically Causes A Bearing To Fail

Wheel bearings live a hard life . They deal with weight, heat, water spray, and impacts, and they are expected to spin quietly for years. Potholes and curb hits can shock the bearing and start the wear process early. Water intrusion can also do damage over time, especially if seals get compromised and road grime works its way in.

Age and mileage play a role, but it is not just about high mileage. We've seen bearings fail early after repeated hard impacts or after running on a badly underinflated tire. Skipping regular maintenance can also let small issues linger, like loose suspension parts that keep shock-loading the bearing. The bearing ends up doing more work than it should, and the noise shows up sooner.

Is It Safe To Keep Driving If It's Only A Noise

A mild bearing noise that just started does not always mean you are seconds away from a breakdown. Many drivers go a while before they realize what they are hearing. The problem is that bearings usually get worse, not better, and the rate of change is unpredictable. A bearing can stay steady for months, then suddenly get louder in a week.

If you notice the noise increasing quickly, a vibration getting worse, or any heat smell after driving, it is time to stop pushing your luck. A severely worn bearing can overheat, create excessive play, and in extreme cases cause wheel-end damage. A quick inspection can confirm whether it is truly a bearing, how much play is present, and how urgent the repair is. That beats guessing based on sound alone.

What A Shop Looks For To Confirm It

Confirming a wheel bearing is partly listening and partly checking for looseness and roughness. A road test helps identify whether the noise follows speed and whether it changes with load. Then the wheel end gets checked for play and smooth rotation. Sometimes the bearing feels gritty when spun by hand, and sometimes it feels fine but makes noise under load, so both steps matter.

We also look for the reason it failed so it does not repeat. Tire wear patterns, suspension looseness, and impact damage can all shorten bearing life . If the bearing is replaced but the vehicle still has a bent wheel or worn bushing, the new part may have a rougher life than it should. The goal is a quiet ride now and less repeat work later.

Get Wheel Bearing Service In Chico, CA With Doctor of Motors

Doctor of Motors can track down whether that speed-related hum is a wheel bearing, a tire wear issue, or another wheel-end problem, then recommend the right fix based on what we find.

If you're hearing a new growl at speed, come in for a clear answer.

6 Early Signs Your Car Battery Is Getting Weak

Fri, 30 Jan 2026 16:00:20 GMT

A weak battery almost never fails in a heroic, obvious way. It usually gives you a handful of small warnings first, and they’re easy to ignore because the car still starts most of the time. Then you get that one morning where it hesitates, the starter sounds sluggish, and you immediately regret not checking it sooner.

If you catch the early signs, you can usually handle it on your schedule instead of getting surprised at the worst time.

Why Batteries Get Weak Even When They Seem Fine

A car battery doesn’t just die because it’s old, it dies because it’s been slowly losing capacity. Heat, short trips, sitting for long periods, and higher electrical demand all speed that up. In Chico, long hot stretches can be rough on batteries, and we see plenty that fade earlier than drivers expect.

A battery can also test okay at rest but struggle under load. That’s why a car may power the dash and radio while still struggling to crank the engine strongly.

1. Slower Cranking Or A Longer Start Than Usual

The most common early sign is the starter sounding slower than normal. It might still start, but it takes a second longer, especially on the first start of the day. Some drivers describe it as a dragging sound. If you notice that change and it’s repeating, that’s often your first clue that the battery is losing strength.

This is especially important if it starts strong sometimes and weak other times. Battery weakness often shows up as inconsistency before it becomes a total failure.

2. Electronics Acting Odd During Startup

If interior lights dim a lot during cranking, or the screen resets when the engine starts, the battery may be dipping too low under load. You might also notice the clock resets or settings get lost. Modern vehicles are sensitive to voltage drop, and a weak battery can cause small, weird behaviors that disappear once the engine is running.

If the car starts and then everything looks normal, it’s still worth noting the pattern. Those moments are often the early stage.

3. Warning Lights That Pop Up Briefly

A weak battery can trigger temporary warning lights because the car’s modules are seeing low voltage during cranking. You might see a traction control light, steering warning, or other indicators that clear once the engine runs for a minute. It can look scary, but the root cause may be a simple voltage drop rather than a failure of the system itself.

If warning lights keep appearing randomly, it’s smart to test the battery and charging system before assuming you have multiple unrelated problems.

4. The Battery Is Older Than You Think

A lot of people lose track of battery age because it’s out of sight. If your battery is several years old, it may be living on borrowed time, especially if it’s been through a lot of heat. Check the date sticker if you can. If it’s been in the car long enough that you can’t remember when it was replaced, that alone is a reason to have it tested.

Age doesn’t guarantee failure tomorrow, but it makes every other symptom more meaningful.

5. You Need More Frequent Jump Starts Or Boosts

If you’ve needed a jump recently, treat that as a warning, even if it started fine the next day. A jump can get you moving, but it doesn’t restore capacity that’s already been lost. A battery that has been deeply discharged is also more likely to weaken further afterward.

We see a lot of batteries that work for a week after a jump, then struggle again. That pattern is usually the battery telling you it won't fully bounce back.

6. The Car Sits More, Or You Drive Mostly Short Trips

Short trips don’t always give the alternator enough time to recharge the battery after starting . Add in accessories like phone charging, heated seats, or lots of stop-and-go driving, and the battery can slowly fall behind. If the car sits for days at a time, a weak battery can also drop below the point where it can crank strongly, even if it was fine when you parked.

This doesn’t mean your driving habits are wrong, it just means the battery may need a little more attention and testing.

What We Check When You Want A Clear Answer

When you’re trying to figure out whether the battery is weak, it helps to test the whole starting and charging picture . We’ll typically check battery condition under load, verify charging output, and inspect terminals and grounds for issues that can mimic battery weakness. If the battery tests borderline, that’s when it’s worth deciding whether to replace it now or monitor it closely.

We’ve seen cases where the battery was fine, but the terminals were corroded, or a ground connection was weak. That’s why testing saves money.

Get Battery Service in Chico, CA with Doctor of Motors

If your car is cranking slower, electronics are acting up during startup, or you’re not sure how strong your battery really is, we can check it and give you a straight answer. We’ll test the battery under load, verify charging performance, and make sure the connections are solid so you’re not guessing.

Call Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA to schedule a battery check and stay ahead of the next weak-start morning.

Why Your Car’s Power Windows Are Sluggish in Cold Weather

Fri, 19 Dec 2025 15:00:09 GMT

When temperatures drop, a lot of drivers notice their power windows move slower than usual or pause halfway before finally closing. Sometimes they creep up so slowly you wonder if the motor is about to quit. Once the weather warms up, they often speed up again, which makes the problem easy to forget.

Cold-related window issues usually come from a mix of stiff materials, tired motors, and extra load in the window tracks.

Why Power Windows Struggle When Temperatures Drop

Cold weather makes most materials contract and stiffen, including rubber seals, plastic guides, and the grease in window regulators. The glass has to slide through tighter, less flexible channels while the motor pushes against thicker, colder lubricant. That extra resistance makes a marginal window motor or regulator show its age very quickly.

In many cars, the electrical system is also working harder on cold mornings, so the window circuit has a little less voltage to work with than it does on a warm day.

How Cold Weather Affects Window Tracks and Seals

The rubber channels and felt-lined guides that hold the glass are designed to hug the window snugly. In cold weather, those materials can harden and shrink just enough to pinch the glass, especially near the top of the travel. If dirt, dust, or old window tint adhesive is already sitting in the tracks, the extra friction can make the window crawl instead of glide.

Moisture is another factor. Water that works its way into the seals can partially freeze or leave behind grit when it dries. That creates rough spots that grab the edge of the glass. On vehicles that live outside, we often see windows that move noticeably slower in the first few inches on cold mornings, then speed up once the motor overcomes that sticky section of the track.

Electrical and Motor Issues Behind Sluggish Windows

Power window motors do not last forever. After years of use, the brushes and internal bearings wear, and the motor no longer produces the same torque it did when new. In warm weather, it may still handle the load, but cold, stiff tracks push it close to its limits. You feel that as slow movement, windows that stall and then continue, or ones that will only close if you help them by gently guiding the glass.

Switches, wiring, and window regulators can contribute too. Corroded connections or tired switches can drop voltage before it ever reaches the motor. Worn regulator gears, frayed cables, or bent arms force the motor to work harder than it should. When we diagnose slow windows, we like to check how much power the motor actually receives under load, not just assume the motor itself is bad.

Owner Habits That Make Slow Windows Worse

A few everyday habits can speed up wear on already tired window parts, especially in cold weather:

Ignoring slow window movement for months until the glass barely moves at all
Forcing the switch repeatedly when the glass is obviously stuck or frozen to the seal
Slamming doors with the window partially down, which can stress the regulator and guides
Never cleaning the glass and upper seals, allowing grit and road film to build up
Using ice scrapers or tools against the rubber channels, which can tear or distort them

These patterns do not always break anything right away, but they shorten the life of motors and regulators that are already fighting cold and friction.

Simple Checks You Can Safely Try at Home

There are a few low-risk checks you can do before bringing the car in. Cleaning the glass and the top edge where it meets the seal often helps more than people expect, because it removes grit that drags through the channel every time you move the window. You can also gently wipe the visible rubber seals with a soft cloth to clear loose debris.

If one window is much slower than the others, compare how it behaves with the engine idling versus with the engine off. A window that speeds up noticeably with the engine running may be suffering from a weak battery or voltage drop, not just mechanical drag. Avoid spraying random lubricants into the door gaps, since the wrong product can swell rubber or attract more dirt into the tracks.

When Slow Power Windows Need Professional Attention

It is time to have sluggish windows inspected when they slow down significantly, stop and restart on the way up, or need help from your hand to move. Any grinding, popping, or clicking from inside the door is a sign that the regulator or motor is wearing out and could fail completely, leaving the glass stuck partway. If a window will not move at all, but you can hear the motor humming, the regulator is likely at the end of its life.

During a proper inspection, a technician can remove the door panel, test the motor and switch, inspect the regulator, and look for broken guides or worn tracks. The idea is to fix the cause of the extra drag or weak drive before the window jams fully open on a cold, wet day or drops into the door.

Get Power Window Repair in Chico, CA with Doctor of Motors

We work with slow and stuck power windows all the time and know how cold weather exposes weak spots in motors, regulators, and seals. We can test your window circuits, inspect the tracks, and replace worn parts so the glass moves smoothly again.

Call Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA, to schedule a power window inspection before a sluggish window turns into one that will not close.

5 Car Damages That Can Occur After Running Out of Gas

Mon, 15 Dec 2025 15:15:01 GMT

Running out of fuel feels like a minor mistake until the bill shows up. Beyond the inconvenience and lost time, a true run-dry event can overheat parts, clog filters, and trigger warning lights that do not vanish with a simple refill.

Here is what actually gets hurt, how each issue shows up, and why a quick top-off earlier would have been the cheaper option.

What Really Happens When You Run Dry

When the fuel level drops far enough, the in-tank pump begins drawing air. Pressure in the line collapses, the engine leans out, and you feel a stumble, then a stall. That brief period of starving is when heat builds in the pump, sediment gets stirred, and emissions checks can fail. The car may restart once you add a few gallons, but hidden damage often lingers.

1. Fuel Pump Overheats and Fails

The electric pump inside the tank relies on gasoline for cooling and lubrication. With little or no fuel around it, the pump runs hot and dry. One episode may not kill it, but repeated near-empty drives shorten its life. Early clues include a faint whine from the tank, slow starts after sitting, or hesitation when you try to accelerate up a ramp.

If the pump seizes, the car will crank and never fire. Repair usually means dropping the tank to replace the pump and strainer, which turns a cheap fill-up into a significant service.

2. Clogged Fuel Filter and Strained Injectors

Over years of fill-ups, tiny bits of rust and debris settle at the bottom of the tank. When fuel is low, the pickup can ingest more of that sediment. Your filter is designed to trap it, but a heavy dose can clog the media quickly, starving the rail at high demand. You may feel the engine go flat on hills, or notice a stumble that clears at steady cruise.

If grit gets past the filter, injectors can stick or spray unevenly, which shows up as a rough idle or hard starts. A fuel pressure test and flow check confirm the restriction; the fix is a new filter and, if needed, cleaning or replacing affected injectors.

3. Catalytic Converter Stress from Misfires

As the tank runs dry, cylinders receive an inconsistent mixture and begin to misfire. Raw fuel and excess oxygen hit the catalytic converter, spiking its temperature. One brief event might only set a code, but repeated misfires can crack the honeycomb inside the converter. Symptoms include a rattling sound at idle after shutdown, a sulfur odor, and sluggish power at higher rpm.

Converters are expensive and integral to emissions performance , so avoiding the heat stress is far cheaper than replacing one after a few run-dry episodes.

4. EVAP System Faults and Warning Lights

The evaporative emissions system seals and monitors fuel vapors. Running out of gas, repeated stalls at the pump, or topping off aggressively can confuse pressure checks and trigger leak or purge codes. A loose or over-tightened gas cap can stack its own warning on top. While these faults are usually minor, a glowing light can mask other problems if ignored .

If your check engine light remains on after two or three normal drive cycles post-refuel, a smoke test and EVAP diagnostics are in order.

5. Safety Hazards and Drivetrain Shock

Stalling in traffic or on a narrow shoulder is a safety risk you do not want to repeat. Beyond the hazard, the stop-and-go of restarting on fumes can jolt mounts and driveline components. You might feel harsh engagement shifting back to drive, or hear a clunk as the powertrain loads suddenly.

Isolated once, it is forgettable. Repeated, it helps tear softened mounts and adds play you will feel later as shudder on takeoff.

Avoid a Repeat: Simple Habits That Work

A few small routines prevent most damage and the headache that follows a run-dry scare:

Refuel at one-quarter tank, not when the light appears.
Use stations with steady traffic so fuel is fresher and tanks are cleaner.
If you ran out, consider a precautionary fuel filter replacement.
After refueling, let the engine idle for a minute to stabilize pressure.
If the car still stumbles, have fuel pressure and EVAP readiness checked.

When to Seek Professional Help After a Run-Dry

If the engine cranks but will not start after adding fuel, the pump may have overheated. A whining noise from the tank, poor throttle response, or a new check engine light are other reasons to schedule a quick evaluation. A shop can verify pump output, test pressure under load, confirm injector performance, and scan for misfire and EVAP codes.

Catching a weak pump or clogged filter now prevents a tow later and protects the converter from heat damage.

Protect Your Fuel System with Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA

If you recently ran out of gas or the car feels weak after a near-empty episode, we can help. Our technicians check fuel pressure, test the pump and filter, evaluate injector flow, and clear EVAP and misfire issues so performance returns and warning lights stay off.

Visit Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA, and we will restore smooth starts, strong acceleration, and peace of mind for the miles ahead.

What Happens When Your Car's Engine Mounts Are Worn Out

Sun, 14 Dec 2025 15:15:00 GMT

When your car is idling and the steering wheel or seats start to shake more than usual, that vibration may not be coming from the engine itself, but rather from the mounts that hold it in place. Engine mounts are often overlooked, but they play a big role in how smooth your vehicle feels and how long key components last.

If these mounts wear out, you may start noticing clunking sounds, extra vibration, or engine movement when accelerating or shifting gears. Let’s take a closer look at what engine mounts do, how to spot early warning signs , and what happens when they fail completely.

What Engine Mounts Actually Do

Every car engine has multiple mounting points that attach it to the vehicle’s frame. These engine mounts are usually made of metal and rubber. The metal provides strength and connection, while the rubber helps absorb vibrations and engine movement. Some modern vehicles even use hydraulic or electronically controlled mounts for better isolation.

Mounts keep the engine stable under normal driving conditions. They also allow for small amounts of movement as the engine shifts slightly during acceleration, braking, and cornering. Without these mounts in place, the engine could shake the entire vehicle or knock into nearby parts .

Signs Your Engine Mounts Are Starting to Fail

Worn or damaged engine mounts don’t always make loud noises or cause major handling problems right away, but they often show subtle symptoms first. Pay attention to these clues:

Increased vibration inside the cabin, especially while idling
A lurch or thump when shifting into gear
Visible engine movement under the hood when accelerating
Clunking noises when going over bumps or during sudden stops

If the rubber in the mount is cracked or deteriorating, it can’t absorb engine movement like it should. Over time, this leads to more strain on the engine and surrounding parts.

Why Ignoring Worn Mounts Can Cause Bigger Issues

Letting worn engine mounts go unaddressed can create a ripple effect throughout your vehicle. When the engine isn’t properly secured, it moves more than it should. This movement can stretch hoses, misalign drivetrain components, and even damage the exhaust system or transmission mounts.

It can also lead to uncomfortable driving conditions. The cabin may feel rougher, and components connected to the engine, such as the radiator fan or intake system, can experience more wear. In severe cases, a completely broken mount can cause the engine to shift out of position, making the car unsafe to drive.

What Causes Engine Mounts to Wear Out

Most engine mounts are designed to last for many years, but they can wear out faster in certain conditions. Here are some common reasons:

Age and mileage: Rubber breaks down over time, especially after years of heat and vibration.
Harsh driving: Aggressive starts, sudden stops, and frequent gear shifting put more stress on the mounts.
Engine leaks: Oil and other fluids can soften rubber, causing mounts to deteriorate faster.
Poor roads: Driving on rough or uneven surfaces every day increases the wear on all suspension and mounting parts.

If your car is over ten years old or has more than 100,000 miles, it’s a good idea to have the mounts checked during regular maintenance appointments.

How Engine Mounts Are Replaced

Replacing engine mounts is not a DIY-friendly task. The engine must be supported while the old mount is removed and the new one is installed. This often requires special tools and access to parts of the engine bay that aren’t easily reached.

Some vehicles have one or two mounts that are easier to access, but others may require removing nearby components to get to the failed mount. Once replaced, you’ll usually notice an immediate difference in how smooth and quiet the vehicle feels.

Prevention and Early Detection Go a Long Way

Even though mounts are simple in design, they’re critical to how the engine functions. Addressing issues early can help avoid extra costs down the line. If you suspect your engine mounts are starting to wear out, don’t wait for a serious problem. A professional mechanic can inspect the mounts and confirm whether they need replacement.

Restore a Smooth Ride with Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA

If your car feels rougher than usual, or you’ve noticed new vibrations or clunks, it may be time to check the engine mounts. Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA can inspect your vehicle, identify worn mounts, and replace them to keep your engine secure and your ride comfortable.

Schedule an appointment today and keep your engine where it belongs—firmly in place.

What That Knocking Noise From the Engine Means

Sat, 13 Dec 2025 15:15:00 GMT

Hearing a knocking noise coming from your engine is unsettling. While some causes are minor and easy to fix, others can signal serious mechanical problems that need immediate attention. Because your engine depends on precise timing and smooth operation, unusual sounds often indicate that something isn’t working as it should.

Knowing what to listen for and how to respond can help you avoid costly repairs and keep your vehicle running reliably.

Why Engine Knocking Happens

Your engine works by igniting a mixture of air and fuel inside the cylinders. This combustion drives the pistons, which power the crankshaft and ultimately turn your wheels. When everything is working properly, the process is smooth and quiet. But when combustion happens at the wrong time or components inside the engine wear down, you may hear knocking, tapping, or pinging sounds.

Knocking can come from several different sources, so it’s important to understand the most common causes and what they mean for your vehicle.

Low-Quality or Incorrect Fuel

One of the simplest causes of engine knocking is using fuel with a lower octane rating than your vehicle requires. Premium vehicles often need higher-octane gasoline to prevent premature detonation, also called “pre-ignition.”

When the air-fuel mixture ignites too early, it creates a sharp knocking sound as the piston fights against the combustion force. Switching to the recommended fuel often solves the problem, but continued use of the wrong octane can cause long-term damage.

Worn or Damaged Engine Bearings

Inside your engine, bearings support moving parts like the crankshaft and connecting rods. Over time, these bearings can wear down, especially if the engine has low oil levels or old, degraded oil.

When bearings become loose, the extra clearance allows metal components to knock together as the engine runs. This type of knock is deeper and more rhythmic than fuel-related pinging and often gets louder as you accelerate. Because bearing damage can lead to catastrophic engine failure, it’s something our technicians check immediately.

Problems With Spark Timing

Your engine relies on precise ignition timing to keep combustion efficient and smooth. If the spark plugs fire too early or too late, you may hear knocking or pinging sounds.

This issue can stem from faulty spark plugs, worn ignition coils, or incorrect sensor readings. In many modern vehicles, the engine control module automatically adjusts timing, but if a sensor fails, it can’t make accurate adjustments. Diagnosing timing-related knocking requires specialized tools to read data from the vehicle’s computer and pinpoint the root cause.

Carbon Buildup Inside the Cylinders

Over time, carbon deposits can collect on the tops of pistons and inside the combustion chamber. This buildup reduces the space available for the air-fuel mixture, increasing compression and raising the likelihood of knocking.

Regular maintenance, such as fuel system cleanings, helps minimize deposits and keep combustion smooth. If buildup is severe, deeper cleaning may be necessary to restore proper operation.

Low Engine Oil or Poor Lubrication

Engine oil not only keeps components cool but also provides a protective layer between moving parts. When oil levels get too low or the oil becomes dirty and breaks down, friction increases, leading to knocking or tapping sounds.

Checking your oil regularly and keeping up with oil changes helps prevent this issue. If you hear knocking accompanied by an oil warning light, it’s best to shut the engine off immediately and have it inspected to avoid severe damage.

Why You Shouldn’t Ignore Engine Knocking

Even if your vehicle still drives normally, ignoring engine knocking can lead to significant damage. Problems like worn bearings or improper combustion can escalate quickly, turning a minor repair into an expensive engine rebuild or replacement .

Our technicians use diagnostic tools and hands-on inspections to identify the source of knocking sounds accurately. Once we know what’s causing the noise, we recommend the safest and most cost-effective repair options to get you back on the road with confidence.

Get Expert Engine Care at Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA

At Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA, our technicians specialize in diagnosing engine noises and resolving the underlying issues before they lead to bigger problems. Whether the knocking is caused by fuel quality, spark timing, carbon buildup, or worn components, we provide precise repairs to keep your vehicle running smoothly.

If you’ve noticed unusual sounds from your engine, schedule an appointment today and let us restore your peace of mind.

What Is a Coolant Flush and Why Does My Car Need One?

Fri, 12 Dec 2025 15:15:01 GMT

Your vehicle’s engine produces a significant amount of heat, and it relies on a cooling system to regulate temperatures. At the center of that system is coolant, also known as antifreeze, which helps transfer heat away from the engine. But over time, coolant breaks down and becomes less effective. That’s where a coolant flush comes in.

If you've ever wondered whether your car needs a coolant flush or what the service really does, this guide will help you understand the value of keeping your cooling system clean and functional.

What Exactly Is a Coolant Flush

A coolant flush is a service that drains the old, worn-out coolant from your vehicle’s system and replaces it with fresh fluid. Unlike a simple drain-and-fill, a full flush also removes sediment, rust, and scale buildup that can collect inside the radiator, water pump, and heater core.

This process helps restore efficient cooling, prevents blockages, and protects the engine from overheating or freezing—depending on the season.

Why Old Coolant Becomes a Problem

Coolant doesn’t last forever. As it circulates through your engine, it breaks down and loses its ability to prevent corrosion and regulate temperature. Over time, it can:

Become acidic and damage internal components
Allow rust and debris to collect inside the system
Lead to clogs or restricted flow, especially in narrow passages
Put extra strain on your radiator, thermostat, and water pump

Ignoring these issues can result in engine overheating, blown gaskets, or even total engine failure.

Signs You May Need a Coolant Flush

You don’t need to wait for your engine to overheat before scheduling a coolant flush. Common signs that it’s time include:

The engine temperature gauge consistently runs hotter than normal
You notice a sweet or musty smell coming from the vents
Coolant appears brown, rusty, or murky instead of bright green, orange, or pink
Visible leaks or low coolant levels without an obvious reason
Gurgling or bubbling sounds from the radiator or heater core

Even if none of these symptoms are present, most vehicles benefit from a coolant flush every 30,000 to 60,000 miles, depending on the make, model, and type of coolant used.

The Role of a Coolant Flush in Preventative Maintenance

A coolant flush is more than just routine fluid replacement— it’s an essential part of long-term vehicle health . By removing old fluid and contaminants, it helps:

Prevent costly repairs due to overheating or component failure
Extend the lifespan of your radiator and water pump
Improve cabin heater performance during cold months
Keep your engine running at optimal temperatures, improving efficiency

It’s especially important before extreme seasonal changes, like winter or summer, when your cooling system is under the most stress.

Schedule a Coolant Flush at Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA

If your engine is running hot, your coolant looks questionable, or it's been a few years since your last flush, Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA, is here to help. Our team will inspect your system, perform a thorough coolant flush if necessary, and ensure your vehicle stays cool and protected throughout every season. Let us help you avoid breakdowns and extend your engine’s life with expert care.

What Does the Alternator Do in My Car?

Thu, 11 Dec 2025 12:26:24 GMT

When it comes to your vehicle’s electrical system, the battery often gets all the attention. While it’s essential for starting your car, the real workhorse behind keeping all your electronics running is the alternator. Understanding what the alternator does and the consequences of its failure can help you stay prepared and prevent unexpected breakdowns.

The Main Role of the Alternator

The alternator’s primary job is to generate electricity to power your car’s electrical systems while the engine is running and to keep the battery charged. Once your engine starts, the alternator takes over from the battery to supply energy to components like the headlights, air conditioning, radio, and power windows.

Without a working alternator, your battery would quickly drain, and your car would lose power.

How the Alternator Works

The alternator is driven by a belt connected to the engine (often the serpentine belt). As the engine runs, it turns the alternator’s pulley, spinning an internal rotor and generating alternating current (AC). A built-in rectifier then converts this AC into direct current (DC), which your car’s systems and battery use.

This continuous cycle keeps your electrical systems running smoothly and ensures your battery stays charged and ready for the next start.

Signs of a Failing Alternator

Like any component, alternators wear out over time. Here are some warning signs that your alternator might be failing :

Dim or flickering headlights: If your headlights get dim when idling or brighten when revving the engine, it may indicate inconsistent power output from the alternator.
Electrical issues: Malfunctions in power windows, locks, radio, or dashboard lights often point to a struggling alternator.
Battery warning light: Many vehicles have a dashboard light shaped like a battery that illuminates when there’s a charging problem.
Strange noises: A failing alternator can produce whining or grinding sounds, often caused by worn-out bearings or internal components.
Dead battery: While a dead battery can have other causes, a faulty alternator may not be properly charging it.

What Happens If the Alternator Fails Completely

If your alternator fails entirely, your vehicle will continue running only as long as the battery holds a charge . Once the battery depletes, your car will shut down, potentially leaving you stranded. Without the alternator, critical systems like steering assist and braking aids may also fail, creating a dangerous situation.

Protect Your Alternator

While alternators will eventually need replacement, you can extend their life with some simple habits:

Avoid running high-power accessories (like heated seats and defrosters) for long periods while idling.
Keep the serpentine belt in good condition and replace it as recommended.
Address oil or coolant leaks quickly to prevent damage to the alternator from contamination.

Regular Inspections Matter

Routine inspections are key to catching alternator issues before they become serious. During a regular maintenance visit, technicians can check the alternator’s output, inspect belts, and test the battery to ensure the whole charging system is working properly.

Schedule Charging System Service at Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA

Your alternator plays a crucial role in your car’s reliability and safety. If you’ve noticed dim lights, electrical glitches, or other signs of trouble, don’t wait for a complete breakdown. The skilled team at Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA, can test and service your alternator and battery to keep your vehicle running strong.

Schedule your inspection today and drive with confidence knowing your electrical system is in great shape.

4 Big Benefits of Regular Tire Rotation

Fri, 27 Jun 2025 15:00:00 GMT

Tire rotation is one of the most straightforward and affordable services you can get for your vehicle, yet it’s often overlooked or postponed. Many drivers assume that as long as their tires look fine, there's no need to rotate them. In reality, routine tire rotation has a big impact on the life and safety of your tires and your car as a whole.

Your tires don’t all wear out at the same rate. Depending on your vehicle’s drivetrain, alignment, and driving habits, some tires endure more pressure and friction than others. Rotation ensures that wear is spread more evenly across all four tires, resulting in improved performance and maximizing the value of your investment.

1. Longer Tire Life

Each wheel position places different demands on the tire. On front-wheel drive vehicles, for example, the front tires handle the majority of the steering and braking forces, which causes them to wear more quickly. If the tires aren’t rotated, those front tires will need to be replaced much sooner than the rear ones.

By regularly rotating your tires, you allow each one to spend time in all four positions, balancing the wear patterns and extending their overall lifespan. This simple habit can help you delay buying a full set of new tires and make sure you’re getting the full mileage your tire manufacturer promised.

2. Better Handling and Performance

Unevenly worn tires can affect your car’s ride quality and its handling on the road. You might feel vibrations through the steering wheel or notice that the vehicle pulls slightly in one direction. Tires that wear unevenly may also lose traction, especially in wet conditions, reducing your ability to stop or turn safely.

Routine rotation helps keep all tires in similar condition, improving balance, stability, and grip. This is especially important for drivers in areas with changing weather or those who do a lot of highway travel.

3. Improved Fuel Efficiency

When tires wear unevenly, it increases rolling resistance and the amount of effort it takes for your car to move forward. This forces the engine to work harder, resulting in higher fuel consumption over time. Even a small increase in resistance can make a noticeable difference in your miles per gallon.

By maintaining even tread depth through regular rotation, your vehicle can roll more smoothly and efficiently, helping you stretch your fuel tank a little farther and save money at the pump.

4. Maintains Tire Warranty Coverage

Most tire manufacturers offer mileage warranties that promise a certain number of miles before the tread wears out. However, these warranties usually come with a condition: you must rotate your tires at regular intervals, typically every 5,000 to 8,000 miles.

Failing to rotate them as required could void your warranty, leaving you responsible for the full cost of replacement if the tires wear out prematurely. Keeping up with scheduled rotations and documenting the service ensures you stay covered if any issues arise.

When Should You Rotate Your Tires

The ideal rotation interval varies depending on your vehicle and driving conditions, but a good rule of thumb is every 6,000 to 8,000 miles or roughly every other oil change. If you drive in especially demanding conditions (like stop-and-go traffic, heavy loads, or rough roads), you might want to rotate them more often.

Some vehicles have different tire sizes on the front and rear or directional tread patterns that affect how rotation can be done. A technician will determine the best rotation pattern for your specific setup.

Schedule Your Tire Rotation at Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA

Tire rotation may be simple, but it delivers big benefits. If it’s been a while since your last rotation, or you're not sure when it was last done, our team is here to help. We’ll inspect your tires, rotate them correctly, and keep your car rolling smoothly and safely.

Call Doctor of Motors in Chico, CA, to schedule a tire rotation and get the most out of every mile.

Why Does My Car Shake When I Accelerate?

Fri, 23 May 2025 10:40:00 GMT

Feeling your car shake when you press the gas pedal is a clear sign that something isn’t right. This kind of vibration usually points to a mechanical or driveline issue, and if left unchecked, it can lead to more serious problems in the future. The good news is that most causes of acceleration-related shaking are well understood and can be diagnosed quickly by a qualified technician.

Here’s a breakdown of the most common reasons your car might shake during acceleration and why it’s important to fix them.

Worn or Damaged CV Axles

If you drive a front-wheel or all-wheel drive vehicle, constant velocity (CV) axles transfer power from the transmission to the wheels. These axles have flexible joints that allow them to move with the suspension and steering. Over time, the CV joints can wear out, especially if the protective rubber boots tear and let in dirt and moisture.

When a CV joint begins to fail, you might feel a rhythmic vibration or hear clicking noises while accelerating or turning. If the joint breaks entirely, the car can lose drive power to one wheel. This is one of the most common causes of shaking during acceleration and should be addressed quickly.

Unbalanced or Damaged Wheels and Tires

If your wheels are out of balance or a tire is damaged, the car may shake, especially when accelerating or reaching higher speeds. A missing wheel weight or a tire with a flat spot can create uneven rotation, leading to noticeable vibration that worsens with speed.

Even something as simple as uneven tire wear can throw off the balance. This issue is often felt through the steering wheel and may also cause the vehicle to pull slightly to one side. A tire and balance check is an easy first step when dealing with a vibration issue.

Engine or Transmission Mount Problems

The engine and transmission mounts keep your powertrain securely attached to the chassis while absorbing vibration. If one of these mounts is cracked or worn out, you might feel the engine move excessively under acceleration. This often feels like a lurch or thump when you step on the gas.

As the problem worsens, you may notice rough shifting, increased engine noise, or even a vibration at idle. Mounts wear gradually, so symptoms can sneak up over time.

Driveshaft or U-Joint Issues

In rear-wheel drive and some all-wheel drive vehicles, the driveshaft transfers power from the transmission to the rear wheels. If the driveshaft is out of balance or the universal joints (U-joints) are worn or dry, the result can be a noticeable vibration, especially under load.

You may feel this vibration through the floor of the vehicle, and it might go away at certain speeds but come back during acceleration. If left unaddressed, driveshaft problems can lead to loud clunking or even component failure.

Brake Issues

Although braking isn’t involved in acceleration, stuck brake calipers or warped rotors can cause drag, making the vehicle vibrate when you apply power. This is especially noticeable if only one wheel is affected, as it creates an uneven load.

A sticking caliper can also lead to overheating, uneven tire wear, and a pulling sensation when driving. If your car shakes and also seems to resist acceleration, it may be worth checking the brake system for any binding or worn parts.

Engine Misfire or Fuel Delivery Problems

If the engine isn’t running smoothly, because of a misfire, a clogged injector, or a weak fuel pump, it can cause the car to hesitate or shudder during acceleration. This type of shake usually feels less like a vibration and more like a stutter or uneven power delivery.

Other signs might include a flashing check engine light, poor fuel economy, or a rough idle. These issues typically require diagnostics with a scan tool to identify which cylinder or system is misbehaving.

Doctor of Motors – Vibration Diagnosis Experts in Chico, CA

At Doctor of Motors in Chico, we understand how frustrating it is to drive a car that shakes or feels unstable. Whether it’s a worn CV axle, misfiring engine, or out-of-balance tires, our team will get to the root of the problem and get your vehicle running smoothly again. Don’t wait until a minor shake turns into a major repair.

Stop by or schedule a diagnostic today, and let us take care of your car with the attention it deserves.

Radiator Flushing

Wed, 13 Dec 2017 12:18:00 GMT

Radiator and Coolant

Host: Okay, Robert, let’s talk about radiators, radiator flushing. I’ve always wondered about that. Flushing the radiator, what does that really mean exactly? When you say, “We’re going to flush the radiator,” what happens?

Robert: Well, let’s imagine. In your radiator, or your cooling system, which is, imagine it’s the water that’s going through the engine and radiator to keep the engine regulated at a certain temperature. That’s why it’s not stagnant. It’s moving. It’s circulating.

That water/coolant, it degrades. It degrades over time. And the purpose of that coolant is to stop it from boiling or stop it from freezing. It does both. After a while, it loses that ability to do that. Not only that, the pieces inside the engine, the metal and gaskets, they’ll start to wear and fall apart, so you’ll get a gunk buildup inside that radiator.

Host: So, small particles coming off engine components, they end up in the coolant which flows through the radiator, as I understand it.

Robert: Correct.

Host: Which is a critical piece of the vehicle to keep it running at the right temperature. Now, I wasn’t aware of that. So, it’s not only just to cool the engine down, but potentially to keep it running efficiently at a proper temperature, right?

Robert: Correct.

Host: An ideal temperature.

Robert: Correct.

Host: So, I’m not sure a lot of folks know that, every time they’re driving, the coolant is degrading, essentially.

Robert: It is.

Host: So, how often should that be changed? And is the flushing process the changing process? Is that the same thing?

Robert: It is. A changing, flushing. Flushing is meant to say, “We’re literally going to take the coolant that is in there and we’re gonna push new coolant in there until all the old stuff is out.” So, it’s 100% gonna be brand-new fluid. If you just change it or drain it, let’s say, you may not be replacing all of it. That’s why a flush is a more thorough job.

Host: So, draining it means, you drain what you can by gravity, and then you replace the coolant that’s missing.

Robert: Right.

Host: But flushing, it is a different type of service.

Robert: Right. It takes an expensive machine, where we hook up your vehicle and it power-flushes the coolant out of there and puts brand-new coolant in.

A Radiator Flush Helps Extend a Vehicle’s Life

Host: For the average driver, how often should this be done, do you think?

Robert: You know, it happens… It’s due anywhere from 60,000 miles to 100,000 miles. Now, if you imagine, your Chevy pickups, the Chevy Silverado, GMCs, the Ford F-150s, F-250s, F-350s, diesel pickups, these are gonna be more in the 100,000-mile range, but then, they have a different type of fluid which is a higher quality. So, anything that has aluminum water pumps, they all require that higher, more expensive fluid, which is a yellow. It’s a yellow color.

Host: So, it’s actually, it looks different than normal fluid.

Robert: It does.

Host: It’s like a high-mileage.

Robert: High-mileage, high-temperature, yeah.

Host: So, for rough conditions or challenging conditions.

Robert: Right.

Host: Okay.

Robert: Now, that radiator, remember how I was saying, it gets dirty, contaminants in there, little bits of metal, or gaskets fall apart, and it starts to contaminate the fluid, or if you imagine, the radiator is a bunch of very, very thin little tubes. Now, those tubes, if they start to get clogged, they turn into a filter instead of a radiator, which it means it gets clogged.

Host: Which is going to just clog it more.

Robert: Right. So, I mean, you can change your…flush your radiator coolant for anywhere from, you know, $100, or you can replace that $700 radiator.

Host: Wow.

Robert: It’s a lot cheaper just to flush the fluid.

Host: So, it sounds like, to be on the safe side, every 50,000, 60,000 miles, it should be done.

Robert: 50,000, 60,000, that should be the standard, yeah.

Host: Okay. Anything else on radiators?

Beware of bugs

Robert: You know, here in Chico, we’re a farm community. Durham, Highway 99, there’s a lot of bugs. And if anyone who’s driven by Lake Oroville on Highway 99 in spring, summer, the amount of bugs that are hitting your windshield, if you imagine, all those bugs, they’re also hitting your radiator and they’re getting…they’re plugging up the radiator. So, you’re efficiency of that radiator deteriorates slowly, but over time, that needs to get cleaned out, and if it doesn’t get cleaned out…

Host: It’s not going to work well.

Robert: It’s not going to work well.

Host: How do you clean it out? Do you pressure wash it, or some other…?

Robert: You’ve got to be careful with a pressure washer because the little thins of metal are paper-thin, and if they bend, now, that’s another problem. So, have your auto repair shop, have your mechanic clean it out. He does it gently with a little tool.

Host: So, they can brush it out somehow?

Robert: It’s like a comb.

Host: A comb? A radiator comb.

Robert: A radiator comb.

Host: Wow.

Robert: It’s great.

Host: So, that really is an issue around here, though. I know exactly what you mean. In the springtime, there’s a million bugs because of the rice fields down south of Chico, and through Durham, and all around, even out to the river area, Sacramento River.

Robert: Yeah.

Host: So, wow, there’s just a million things to think of.

Robert: There are a million things to think of, and that’s why, if you just imagine, you get your oil change done regularly. Take it to a place where they’re gonna have certified mechanics, certified ASC mechanics to work on your car. They know what to look for. You go to a place where it’s a 10-, 15-minute quick lube, they’re not taking their time.

Host: That’s really interesting. So, they can’t. They can’t possibly do that because they’re focused on one service. So, I can completely see the benefit now of going to, can we just call it, a full-service shop?

Robert: Full-service shop, there you go.

Host: Is that the right term for it?

Robert: Yeah.

Host: Because they’re not only going to be addressing, let’s say, an oil change, but also looking at, check the brakes, check the fluids, check the radiator, all of the above, all the many things that could be not performing as well they could be and which might result in more expense, unnecessary expense, down the road because the maintenance just isn’t happening.

Robert: It’s always cheaper to maintain your car than to replace things. Always.

Host: Sure.

Auto Insurance May Cover Mechanical Damage

Wed, 13 Dec 2017 07:47:00 GMT

Comprehensive Auto Insurance and Mechanical Damage

Host: Robert, I think what you were saying is a lot of people don’t realize that if their vehicle is damaged on the road, let’s say something is in the road, you run over it, it comes up into the engine compartment, damages the drive train, that is something that an auto repair shop can handle and the auto insurance company will pay for it. Can you talk more about that?

Robert: Yeah. Mainly full coverage insurance. So, if you have your basic…can’t remember the term…

Host: It’s all right.

Robert: …your basic insurance isn’t going to cover it. But full coverage will.

Host: Comprehensive.

Robert: Comprehensive. So, if you have comprehensive insurance , what’s gonna happen, say you’re driving down the road, and you’re in a situation where you have a truck on the side of you, another truck, or a guardrail on the other side, and there is a big stick in the road, a rock, something.

Something’s in the road and you just have to hit it and there’s nothing you can do, that’s one of those things where, if you hit it and it causes damage, you’re insurance, that’s what it’s there for. Your insurance will cover that. You may have a deductible, but your insurance will cover that.

Host: It’s probably a deductible. But I think when most people about that type of insurance, they’re thinking body repair. My car got dented, or somebody ran a shopping cart into it, or they backed into my vehicle in a parking lot. Something like that. But it actually covers what would be normally considered auto repair. The mechanical parts of the vehicle, right?

Robert: Right. Right, and what most people don’t understand is if they hit something and it goes underneath the engine, it may damage something that’s not going to show up for a few months.

Host: Not an obvious body…

Get Your Vehicle Inspected at a Full Service Auto Repair Shop

Robert: Correct. Not an obvious…it didn’t dent your bumper, it didn’t, you know, dent your hood or crack your windshield, but underneath, it most likely did something. And if you take it to a full-service shop like me, Doctor of Motors, bring me your paperwork, I go over it, we inspect the vehicle, and if we see physical damage, then that’s specifically something that insurance does cover.

Host: So, how does that work, though? Let’s say I had an incident like this. The normal inclination, probably even if I file a claim with the insurance company, is they would direct me to a body shop, most likely. Or, that’s probably what I would be thinking as well. Looks… There’s obviously, I’ve got a big dent in my car. I’ve got some kind of problem with the car that’s body damage. I go there first, do I then take it to Doctor of Motors to look underneath the vehicle, for example. Put it up on a lift?

Robert: If you take it to the auto body shop, they’re going to look at it and say, “You’re fine, there’s nothing wrong”. They’re not looking underneath and inspecting it like a full-service shop would.

Host: They don’t, right?

Robert: No. No.

Host: They’re just looking at the body work.

Robert: They’re just looking at the body work. So, if you bring it to an auto repair shop, like Doctor of Motors, we’re going to inspect it, and we’re going to look and see what was the damage that happened underneath? Because if you…if three months go down the road and you try to tell your insurance company, “Well I did hit a stick about three months ago,” they’re gonna say, “You didn’t tell us back then.

” So, they’re not going to cover it. But if you do it within a few days, you know, get it down here, we inspect it, we handle everything. So, we’ll talk to the insurance company on your behalf and we’ll make that happen.

Host: How does it work if there’s also some body damage, though? Do you work with a body repair shop?

Robert: We do. The way it works is we’ll handle the mechanical repair portion and then you would just take it over to a body shop of your choice and they’ll continue. And the insurance company is completely aware of this. They understand that is a normal procedure.

Host: So, not an issue with the insurance company to do that?

Robert: Not at all.

Host: I think very few people think about that.

Robert: The problem is, is not many people know about it, so when they hit something they go, “Oh, darn it.” They take it to the shop and they pay for it out of pocket, not understanding that they’ve already paid for this type of problem to be repaired through their insurance.

Host: So, in that case, they would only be out the deductible for the comprehensive insurance, as opposed to a potentially much more expensive repair?

Robert: Correct.

Hidden Transmission Damage: True Scary Story

Robert: And, actually, you know what, speaking of, I have a transmission on order right now for a 2018… I shouldn’t have said this. Darn it.

Host: Okay, let’s say it again.

Robert: So, speaking of just what we were just talking about, someone, just the other day, they were driving down the road, down Esplanade here, right in front of the shop, they hit a stick, which you think, “Oh, it’s just a stick. It’s not that big of a deal.”

The stick hit the transmission pan and poked a hole in it. And the model car is a 2018 Dodge Charger, and that Dodge Challenger has a plastic transmission pan.

Host: Why would they do that?

Robert: Why would they do that? Well, I’ll tell you. Remember, they’re trying to get as much miles per gallon.

Host: So bring down the weight of the car.

Robert: So bring down the weight, and plus, plastic is cheaper than steel.

Host: And what could hit it, right?

Robert: And what could hit it? Right.

Host: Okay, so we’ve had some storms here recently in Chico, in the North Valley, and this is a stick that probably… a branch that broke off a tree.

Robert: Yep.

Host: It was down and blown into the road.

Robert: And he couldn’t help it, he had to go over it.

Host: Sure, sure.

Robert: And it damaged some of the bumper. So it damaged the bumper, and it also damaged the transmission pan. Well, it damaged the transmission pan enough to where he was still able to drive, but he didn’t know that it was leaking. It leaked out enough to cause some damage to the internals of the transmission. This vehicle only has 3,000 miles on it.

Host: Brand-new vehicle?

Robert: Brand-new 2018 Dodge Challenger, hasn’t even had its first oil change, and it already needs a transmission.

Host: Wow.

Robert: But insurance, of course, they’re paying for it completely.

Host: So this is one of these perfect cases we just talked about, where there was a little bit of body damage, it sounds like, but in this case, the owner, because he was having trouble driving the vehicle, figured out there really was something wrong with the mechanical systems, and it turned out to be a transmission. So, in that case, is his comprehensive insurance covering it, with exception of the deductible?

Robert: Yeah. It’s an $8,000 transmission.

Host: $8,000 transmission.

Robert: And they are completely covering it.

Host: Wow.

Robert: And you know what he said? He said, “Oh, it was driving fine, so I was just going to not worry about it.” Good thing he did. Good thing he stopped in and had us check it out because…

Host: Why did he stop in? What prompted him stopping? Is it a little trouble?

Robert: He just said, you know, “It just, it hit pretty hard under there, but it still was driving.” So he decided, “Ah, you know, I might as well just get it checked out just to make sure.”

Host: Smart.

Robert: Smart, because if, you know, a month down the road, let’s say it lasted a month, the insurance company’s going to say, “No. No. No, we don’t believe you.” So you need to get it done as soon as possible.

Brakes Service Issues

Mon, 11 Dec 2017 07:56:00 GMT

Warped Brake Rotors

Host: Let’s go ahead and get into brakes. Robert, what are the issues around brakes and brakes service? What do people need to know about that? What are the problems you see?

Robert: Problems that I see are rotors getting warped. Now, in your braking system, we have brake pads. And the brake pads squish the rotors, which are, imagine, a disk. Now, the pads squish the disk, which slows you down. Just to sum it up.

Host: So the pads are on either side of the rotor, and they’re putting pressure on the rotor, and that’s what slows down the vehicle.

Robert: Correct. It’s a very efficient way of working. It works very well. But when you are driving a 5000-pound vehicle and you go to slow down, that creates a lot of heat. And that heat can cause that metal rotor to literally change its shape.

Host: It’s going to warp.

Robert: Just a hair and that’s called “warping” it. And then you’ll have pulsations. You’ll go to step on your brake and you’ll feel a pulsation on the brake pedal or a shaking in the steering wheel. Any of those issues can cause braking problems.

Host: So from a consumer standpoint or the vehicle’s owner’s standpoint, that might be one of the first signs of trouble.

Robert: That is definitely the first sign of trouble. But the damage has already been done.

Host: Okay. How do you prevent the damage from happening in the first place?

Robert: All right. So one of the things that you can do…what the manufacturer recommends is that when you’re driving at higher speeds, and say you’re coming off the freeway, going down the grapevine, say, a steep grade. In Butte County, we have Skyway. Coming down Skyway, we have Highway 32. Any one of those, if you’re riding the brakes a little bit…

Host: And those are long runs.

Robert: Those are long runs. That’s the problem.

Host: Several miles.

Robert: Right, They say, at those higher speeds, tap on the brake pedal a couple of times so you slow down sooner before having to just ride your brake a bit till you come to a slow stop. If you ride your brake, you’re generating so much more heat than is needed, and that will ruin brand new brakes.

Driving Habits Affect Your Brakes Performance

Host: You’re ruining your brakes when you do that. Do you like the idea of downshifting?

Robert: No, I don’t like the idea of downshifting. Because…

Host: Tell us why.

Robert: Because your transmission is a very expensive unit, and your brakes aren’t that expensive. Go through brakes before you go through the transmission.

Host: So better to trash the brakes than…

Robert: Yes, yes, definitely. They mainly say that when you’re driving a manual transmission. When you are…

Host: Like a truck. I mean, we have logging tracks around here, etc. So they’re always shifting, but they’re using heavy-duty manual transmissions.

Robert: Right. And not only that. If you’re using a manual transmission, it’s okay. You can downshift, that’s fine, It’s more getting in a better driving habit of knowing how far away do I have to stop.

If you prepare and slow down a little bit sooner, your brakes aren’t gonna get as hot rather than if you have to stop more abruptly. Most people who are hard on their brakes is because they’re, “I gotta get there real quick, I gotta speed up real fast, and I gotta slow down real fast.”

Host: So they’re aggressive drivers.

Robert: Aggressive drivers, yeah. You’re gonna go through a lot more brakes.

Host: How long do brakes last, typically?

Robert: Well, if you’re an aggressive driver, anywhere from 15,000 to 20,000 miles.

Host: That’s not much.

Robert: That’s not much at all.

Host: So you could be talking brakes every year and a half.

Robert: Yeah. Every year, year and a half. That’s not uncommon.

Host: That’s a lot. Yeah.

Robert: Or, you know, a nice little old lady, she’s gonna have her brakes for 90,000 miles.

Host: The little old lady from Pasadena.

Robert: There you go.

Host: Okay. As long as you own the car. So that’s a huge range. So people’s driving habits and driving technique is a big determinant of brake issues. Is there anything else about the brake system that we need to be thinking about in terms of, let’s say, maintenance and keeping it safe and running properly?

Robert: Well, another determination is the size of the vehicle. If you have an SUV or a minivan, that’s a larger vehicle, and those brakes aren’t much larger than a car. So, yeah, you have to be a little more easier on those brakes because they’re going to go out faster.

Host: And it’s the front brakes that take most of the load, right?

Robert: 70%.

Host: 70%.

Robert: 70% of your braking power’s in the front. So you’ll do two brake jobs to every one brake job in the rear.

Host: Sure. So when someone brings their vehicle into Dr. Motors [SP], do you routinely check the brakes? Is that part of your inspection?

Robert: Every time. Yes, every time. You were also asking how can I maintain my brakes? What can I do to keep them going as long as possible? Well, first thing is driving habits. That’s the number one. If you’re easier on your brakes, they’ll be easier on your pocketbook. If you come in for an oil change or you need to get them checked out, there’s brake fluid. Service that brake fluid. If you see that the brake fluid is getting dirty, it’s already too late. Service it during the manufacturer recommendation time, which is roughly 3 years, 36,000 miles.

Host: Three years, And your mechanic, your technician can take a look at the fluid visually?

Robert: Correct.

Host: And see if it has some issues.

Robert: Right. If he looks at it and says it’s starting to get cloudy, that’s water in there. If it’s starting to get dark, that’s the seals inside the calipers, and master cylinder and ABS system, that it’s slowly starting to fall apart.

Host: So little particles of the seals themselves, like a rubber compound, essentially, are getting in the fluid, which can’t be good for any of the brake system, right?

Robert: It’s not that they’re getting in the fluid. It’s the seals are starting to break down because the fluid is not nice and clean. It’s not good fluid anymore. So it turns caustic.

Host: Does that mean replacing the seals as well? That sounds like a huge job.

Robert: It is a huge job. Just change the fluid. Stay on top of changing the fluid.

Host: So we have another one of these cases, then, where neglecting some things… You would think that the brake fluid would last indefinitely. But nothing like that is ever true, right?

Robert: Yeah. These are machines, They need maintenance. They need upkeep. And it’s just cheaper to stay up on that maintenance, rather than to let it go.

Repair and Replacing Automatic Transmissions

Mon, 11 Dec 2017 07:52:00 GMT

Host: What can you tell us about automatic transmissions? So Doctor of Motors, obviously, works on transmissions, replaces them.

Robert: We do. We repair, replace.

Host: Repair, replace.

Robert: We test any of those problems. When you have a Check Engine light, there’s also a Check Engine light for the transmission, which is, if you imagine your indicator, where it says, Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive, there is usually a little light around that tells you what gear you’re in.

Host: Yes.

Robert: If that light starts to flash, that is your Check Engine light for the transmission.

Host: That just happened to my wife’s vehicle. That’s what she saw on her Honda Odyssey.

Robert: Yeah. And that’s the transmission computer saying, “Hey, we’re having a problem.”

Host: “Something’s wrong.”

Robert: “You need to get it checked out.”

Full Service Auto Repair Shops Fix Transmissions Too

Host: Okay. So Doctor of Motors is a full-service shop, tackles transmissions, as well.

Robert: Yes, we do.

Host: Why do we have separate transmission shops? Is that just the same idea as tune-up shops and oil change shops, and so forth?

Robert: You know, places used to specialize in one specific thing, but we’re getting to that area in society where you just can’t do one thing these days. You need to be proficient in more than one thing. You can’t just sit back and say, “Oh, I’m going to just… I’m going to be really good at one thing.” You have to be good at all of them.

Host: So the expectation is, a full-service shop would be able to handle this, as well.

Robert: Yes.

Host: Okay. So you think we’re actually moving away from some of the specialty players that might have existed from decades ago, perhaps?

Robert: Right. You’ll notice that transmission shops are starting to try to branch into being repair shops because they’re finding they need to do more work. They need to be able to do more than…

Host: Instead of just specializing on that thing.

Robert: Right, because so many of the systems of the vehicle: transmission, engine, wiring, transfer case, rear end, they’re all linked, and when there’s a problem, you need to be able to understand all of them, not just one.

Host: It seems like they’re all linked, at least electronically, right?

Robert: Yeah, and electronically, that’s where it gets confusing, the electronics. It’s difficult, but that’s why we go to school, we get trained, we update our credentials all the time.

Host: Right. So there’s really no reason not to go to a full-service shop, it seems to me, because if you don’t, you might be missing something which is just going to put a hole in your wallet down the road.

Robert: Right. It’s cheaper to find it sooner and fix the little problems than wait for them to turn into big problems.

Host: Do you think the modern transmissions are more reliable than they used to be?

Robert: You know, I would say, yes, they are more reliable, but as in anything, the more electronic you get, the more problems you have. So the fancier things that are made, they just tend to break more.

Vehicles with Complex Systems May Not be as Reliable

Host: I remember you mentioned that earlier. So your suggestion was that… We can talk about this pretty soon, but this idea of reliability of the vehicle has a lot to do with complexity.

Robert: Yes.

Host: The more complex and probably more expensive vehicles are also, tend to be, not as reliable as the simpler vehicles.

Robert: A prime example is Chevy Silverados, Chevy pickup trucks.

Host: Yeah, good truck.

Robert: It’s a very good truck, and they hold their value extremely well. They are expensive, but if you notice, they haven’t changed much of their engine, or they haven’t changed as much as the other players have. Their stuff is bullet-proof. It lasts a very long time. As long as you maintain it, she’s going to last, you know, 300,000 to 500,000 miles.

That’s not a problem. But you see in the other cars that they make, their Chevy Camaro, the Malibu, Chevy Malibu, Chevy Impala, the cars, they tend to overexert themselves on the amount of technology that they want to put in there, and they just get ahead of themselves, and they’ll have a lot of electronic issues.

So you can see, they’ve really stuck to their base, as far as it goes, on their trucks. You know, they’re not putting too much more technology, or they’ll be more reserved in how much they put in. At that point, they’re putting what’s tried and true in their trucks, and kind of experimenting in their cars. Yeah.

Host: Too bad for some consumers, right?

Robert: You know, I don’t want to bash and say that they’re bad cars.

Host: No, no.

Robert: They’re just, they’re prone to some electronic issues, but you will notice that Chevy cars have the cutting edge technology in them.

Host: Which appeals to some consumers.

Robert: That it does.

Host: Right. Navigation systems, entertainment systems, etc.

Robert: Oh yeah, oh yeah, all the bells and whistles.

Host: All the bells and whistles, interesting. Anything else that we should know about transmissions?

Robert: We’re good.

More about Drive Trains and Differentials

Auto Repair Technicians vs Mechanics

Sun, 10 Dec 2017 08:13:00 GMT

Host: You mentioned earlier this idea of auto repair technicians versus a mechanic and some history about that. Can you tell us about that?

Robert: Yeah. Well, back years ago when my father was a mechanic and before him, your dad could almost do just as much as everything as the mechanic could.

He just didn’t have the time, so, you know, it was easier to have the mechanic work on your car, replace the radiator, flush the cooling system, do a tune up.

Those were little things that were easy enough to do. And if you even had a couple tools, you were able to rebuild your own engine.

Host: But the cars must have been simpler back then.

Robert: Very much simpler. So the reason why you hear automotive technician instead of mechanic, or automotive mechanic, is because these guys were called grease monkeys for years.

Simple…that they’re doing just a simple job. Well these days you almost have to be an engineer. You go to years and years of schooling, and not only that, you have to get updates every year.

Host: Update your education

It’s All About Education

Robert: Update your education. Continually update it. Because each new car that comes out, they’re constantly developing new technology that at Doctor. Motors and every other shop, we have to stay on the cutting edge or else you’re going to fall behind.

Host: Sure. And may not be able to work on the most recent vehicles…

Robert: Correct.

Host: …coming out. Okay, because I noticed that a lot of people on the internet are searching for the word “mechanic” but that’s really just a reference because it’s been…that term has been used over many decades.

Robert: Correct. Because at home they say, “We got to take out car to the mechanic.”

Host: Sure. Sure.

Robert: That’s it.

Host: So mechanic, car mechanic, auto mechanic, etc. But today we’ve moved over to the term of “auto repair technician.” Is that right?

Robert: Correct. Because these mechanics feel, “Hey, I’ve gotten a college degree, I have to continually educate myself, I’m above a mechanic. I’m now…I should be respected.” Which they’re true, they’re right.

Host: Mm-hmm. Great.

More about automotive service technicians.

Oil Changes and Oil Filters

Sun, 10 Dec 2017 08:09:00 GMT

Changing Your Oil vs. Buying a New Engine!

Host: Robert, what should customers know about oil changes and oil filters, just generally speaking?

Robert: Customers should mainly know to be regular on their oil changes. That’s the easiest thing that they can do. When you come into Doctor Motors and get an oil change, what we do is we schedule your next oil change and we pencil it in. You know, nobody knows what they’re doing in three months or five months.

But the girls in the office, what they do is they will call you a week before your appointment is due, that way if it works for you, great, if it doesn’t, you can reschedule. But staying on track with those oil changes, I mean if you imagine, these engines, they cost you anywhere from $4,000 to $9,000 for an engine. Get your oil change done. It’s as simple as I can say.

Host: Sounds wise.

Robert: Get your oil change done. And the…watching you gauges, your lights, there’s usually a percentage. On some of these cars, the Nissan Altima, Toyota Camry, CRV, Nissan Maxima, they all have indicators on the dash that tell you a certain percentage.

Host: What does the percentage show? To the point where you need the oil changed, the next change?

Robert: Right. Well it’ll say when you come and get your oil change done, the…your auto mechanic is supposed to reset it back to 100%, so that way by the time you get to 5%,10 % it’s time to get ready to do your oil change.

Host: And these indicators are set to the…must be, to the manufacturer’s recommendation for that vehicle?

Robert: They are. They are. They actually have their own specific computer that calculates everything from ambient temperature outside, to how hard you’re stepping on the gas, to how…what your elevation…where do you live, because if you live in hotter temperatures as opposed to up in the mountains, you probably need an oil change a little bit more often than they do.

Doctor of Motors ASE–certified technicians are trained to understand how your vehicle uses oil and how the right oil extends your vehicle’s life.

We’ll not only give you great service for the right price, your technician will also reset your oil change light after your oil changes, so you will know precisely when to come back for your next oil change. When the light comes on, you come in. It’s that simple. This will save you money, reduce oil waste, and also improve your gas mileage. Our friendly staff will send you a personal reminder in the mail when it’s time for your next oil change.

More about oil changes and other important maintenance.

Weather Affects Car Battery Life

Sun, 10 Dec 2017 08:06:00 GMT

Living Mild Climate or Maintain a Battery

Host: Robert, what issues come up with car batteries? We’re approaching winter. Right now, as we’re recording this, it’s mid-November, moving into the winter season. Is that a particularly tough time for batteries, or should people come in and start thinking about batteries? What do we find, based on your experience, people should do at this time of year?

Robert: What people should do is, when they get their oil change, ask and make sure that they’re checking the battery. The reason why is because every, let’s say, fall, spring, those are the times where the temperature is moderate, let’s say, it’s not too hot, not too cold, batteries are gonna last a good long time. It’s the extreme temperatures in either direction that cause batteries to fail.

Host: Heat of the summer, cold in the winter, both of those could trigger batteries to go bad?

Robert: They prematurely wear them. So, if you had a temperature of 75 degrees and you left your battery constantly in 75 degrees, it would last a heck of a lot longer.

Host: But that never happens.

Robert: But that never happens, of course not, because inside the engine compartment, it gets to, you know, 150 degrees.

Host: Sure, sure.

Robert: It’s hot. It’s hot in there.

Host: And also freezing at night.

Robert: Freezing at night, yeah, cold temperatures. That’s why, if you ever go to start your car in the morning and it doesn’t seem to crank over or make the roar-roar-roar, if it doesn’t do that fast, then that means your battery is slowly going out. That’s a telltale indication that that battery is going out.

Host: It just doesn’t have the cranking power that it once did.

Robert: Correct.

Host: Okay, so how is the battery checked? Someone comes in at Doctor of Motors, and you do an oil change, they see the indicator in the dash, or they’re thinking, “Well, I just got an e-mail notice from Doctor of Motors that it’s time to change the oil.”

What’s involved with checking the battery? I mean, are we actually hooking some sort of tool or device to the battery to check it, or is it a visual inspection, or both? How does it work, actually?

Robert: It’s both. If we see any corrosion around your battery terminals, that’s an indication of metal deteriorating, electricity problems. If you ever have a computer problem, it all can lead back to your battery having bad terminal connections. Electricity does not like to fight. It likes to move smoothly.

Host: A nice flow.

Robert: A nice flow. And if it doesn’t have that flow, it creates heat. And as we all know, anything electronic doesn’t like heat.

Host: Right. So you’re driving the vehicle and you see something strange happening with your lights, or controls, or other aspects of the electronics, it could actually just be a battery terminal problem, or a battery problem, or maybe even the battery not being charged properly by the alternator.

Robert: Correct. If you’re already noticing a problem as you’re driving, then the problem’s been there for a very long time and it’s doing damage, if the damage isn’t already done.

Host: So, you need to get in straightaway?

Robert: You need to get it in straightaway. But when you get a battery test, there’s a couple of ways to do that test. There’s the quickie little simple test, which you could probably get at any AutoZone. It’s a quick test. It’s not gonna be as definitive as when you go into the auto mechanic at Doctor of Motors or an auto repair shop and they put on a tester, and they can actually test the grounds for the whole system.

How is power flowing? What percentage is that battery capable to hold? Imagine your battery is a bucket of water, okay? And at some point, there’s going to be a hole inside of that bucket where electricity can only fill up to a certain point. So, the lower that hole gets, the harder it is to fill up that battery.

Host: So, bottom line is, what would you say to vehicle owners here in Chico? In terms of maintaining their battery, what’s the best approach?

Robert: To maintain it is, make sure the battery is clean and dry as possible. And also, getting it checked every time they get their oil change, which is three times a year.

Host: Three times a year, on average?

Robert: On average, two to three times a year is how often you’re gonna get your oil changed, and that’s a perfect time to have it looked at, because nobody wants to not be able to start their car. And it never happens when you park at the auto repair shop. It never breaks down at the auto repair shop.

Host: That’s a given rule. That’s a rule of the industry.

Robert: Right. It’s gonna be, you’re on your way, you gotta get to work, you’re late. That’s when these problems come up.

Host: Or you gotta take the kids to school, something like that. That’s great. One last question about this. Does it make a difference? Do you think it’s meaningful to try and invest, if that’s the right word, to buy a more expensive battery?

Where Should We Go and Buy a Battery?

How do we know what we’re getting it for, if you’re a consumer and you’re shopping for a battery. Can you give us some direction on that? I mean, what should we look for? Should we just automatically try and pay more for a high-end battery? Does it matter that much?

Robert: Talk to your mechanic, okay. That’s going to be the main thing. If you’re buying it… I hate to throw somebody under the bus, but if you’re buying your battery at Walmart, it’s not going to last very long. Those cheap, cheap batteries, if it’s super-cheap, then there’s a reason why.

Host: And what sort of price range are we talking about here? I mean, is there a threshold where, like, if you don’t spend, let’s say, 50 bucks or some figure like that, if you’re paying less than that, maybe you’re not…

Robert: If you’re paying less than $100 for your battery, it’s a very inexpensive battery and it’s not gonna last very long.

Host: So, premium batteries are $100, $200 even.

Robert: Yes, depending on if you have some of these… The Acura TL, Chevy Camaro, some of those require a little bit higher-grade battery. BMWs especially, BMW 3s, 5 series, Mercedes Benz, they need a specific battery.

And if you actually looked at the battery, it’s literally twice the size of other batteries. That’s a $270 battery, but if you bought a $170 battery in place of that, that’s a cheap battery and it’s not going to last you anywhere near as long.

Host: For that particular vehicle.

Robert: For that particular vehicle.

Host: Okay.

Robert: Right.

Host: So, it’s not just a generic question. We have to look at the vehicle.

Robert: Yes.

Host: What kind of vehicle you’re driving, maybe what sort of conditions you’re driving the vehicle in, climate, where you live, etc.

Robert: Right.

Host: So, talk to the mechanic, talk to your repair technician, find out his recommendation or her recommendation.

Robert: Yes.

Host: Right?

Robert: Mm-hmm.

Host: Okay.

How to Find a Auto Repair Shop

Sun, 10 Dec 2017 08:03:00 GMT

Happy Customers Tell You a Good Place!

Host: Robert, in your experience, when consumers are looking for a shop, they’re looking for an auto repair shop, car repair, what should they be looking for in the shop itself? If you were to go, you know, if you’re driving somewhere, you find yourself in another town and you had a car repair need, what would you do? How would you find a shop? How would you investigate it?

Robert: First off, I would look them up online, see, how well are they treating their customers. And the review sites are a perfect way to see that. Next, once you’ve narrowed that down, give them a call. How do they talk to you? Do they treat you with respect and kindness, and are they helpful?

Host: So you’re saying, call before you even go there to check them out?

Robert: I would. Call them. Schedule an appointment. See how that feels. How’s the vibe? After that, you’re then gonna go in, and you’re gonna see, you know, how’s the cleanliness of the shop? Are they busy? If a shop is not busy, there’s a reason why. Yeah, it can be something…

Host: So you think most shops should…you should see cars there most of the time, that they’re turning those cars around?

Robert: It’s kind of like a hamburger place. Let’s say, In-N-Out, In-N-Out is always busy, right?

Host: A fine hamburger place.

Robert: In-N-Out is always busy.

Host: They are.

Robert: And you notice, they use the best quality ingredients. They do a good job.

Host: They make a great burger.

Robert: They make a great burger.

Host: No question.

Robert: So if you imagine… Yeah, that’s what I would do. I would first check review sites, see how well they treat other people, because no one’s perfect. Not everyone is always gonna like you. Not everyone is gonna… No shops are gonna be five-stars all the time.

Host: I’ve never seen a five-star shop, actually.

Robert: No, not with more than 10 reviews, right?

Host: Right, right.

Robert: There’s a couple, you know, but I mean, it’s hard to please everyone. I know I do my darnedest, but not everyone is gonna like me, and that’s just a fact of life. But we do our best. We treat people with kindness and respect. And communication is such an important thing in a repair shop because everyone needs their car yesterday, and there are a ton of problems.

Things come up and the mechanic needs to be quick on his feet to handle those issues. The guy behind the counter that you talk to, who’s organizing everything, he needs to be on his toes, talking to vendors and talking to the client, and saying, “You know what? I’m expecting ‘this time’, your car to be done.” But if he over-promises and under-delivers, that’s a problem.

Host: The customer is going to notice that.

Robert: The customer is gonna notice that, and they’re gonna say, “Hey, I have to have dinner done by 5:00. I need to pick up the kids. I need to get to work tomorrow.” And if he hasn’t called you and you don’t know, that’s a problem. So staying in communication is a key component to a good repair shop.

Host: Do you have any sense, over the years, perhaps you’ve heard stories from other shops or experiences that other people have had, things that really irk them or bother them about auto repair shops?

Robert: Yes. One of the main things that I hear a lot is, “I was told one price, and I came in to pick it up, and it was way more.”

Host: Totally different price.

Robert: Totally different price. Nobody likes that.

Host: How does that happen?

Robert: Well, it’s not supposed to happen. I don’t know how it does, but apparently, it’s happening in some places.

Host: But at Doctor of Motors, you give people a written estimate, have them understand it, sign off on that, correct?

Robert: Correct.

Host: And that should be the number.

Robert: Legally, we’re not allowed to go beyond the limit of what you approve. So if you come in and say, “Hey, I need my oil changed,” I write the information down, saying, “We’re gonna replace your oil, and top off your fluids, and inspect your vehicle to make sure it’s fine.” And I’d say, “It costs $37.” If you come in and I say, “You owe $500,” you don’t have to pay that.

Host: You’re right. I probably won’t.

Robert: Right. So that’s how it goes. You get your written estimate in the beginning. You approve a certain amount. So when you say, “Yes, I understand that $37 is gonna get my oil changed,” then you’re done and good. When the shop calls back and says, “Hey, we see your brakes are metal-to-metal. That grinding noise that you were asking about, your brakes are metal-to-metal, so you need brakes.” You approve the brake job. Let’s say it’s $200, $300, you approve that. It should be no more than the $200 or $300 that you approved. That’s it.

Host: But at some shops, that has happened.

Robert: At some shops, it has happened, and that’s the reason why there’s the rules.

Host: Sure, sure.

Robert: Yeah.

Host: Is there anything else that you hear from customers about how they ended up at Doctor or Motors, beyond price?

Robert: You know, one of the main things that I hear right away is, when you call a shop, you can tell right away, how they treat you, how they talk to you, is it gonna be a good experience. And if you get a bad vibe from that phone call, or they didn’t answer all your questions correctly, if you just felt like it wasn’t a good fit for you, trust me, it’s not going to be a good fit for you. That’s a great indication. Call them up and see how it is.

Why Auto Repair Shop’s Parts Are Pricier Than Online Store?

Host: I have a question about parts. Getting the parts for the vehicle, sometimes it seems like more difficult to get a hold of or there’s some kind of delay with parts. Are all shops buying from the same sources, essentially, or do some shops have a fast-track way to get parts?

Robert: There’s so many places to get parts. One of the things that the shops will do is try to buy from the local vendors who are gonna stand behind their parts because…

Host: In terms of the warranty on the parts?

Robert: In terms of the warranty, because, remember, a lot of these parts, they’re… Not many places in America make things these days, so we’re getting our parts from different countries. That’s just how it is. It’s where they’re available. That’s where they make them. So, sometimes, they have high failure rates. Power-sharing pumps are one of these things that just have high failure rates because you can’t necessarily buy them new. They’re rebuilt, but there’s plenty of companies that make them rebuilt. Some don’t do very good of a job, and some do a better job, but again, the product, in the beginning, isn’t very high-quality. So if you… Let’s say you buy that part from eBay, okay? You got a great deal on it, but as soon as you buy it or as soon as you pay that money, they could care less. You’re never gonna be able to return it to them again.

Host: It’s over.

Robert: It’s over. Yeah, that’s one of the things I don’t like about using eBay. But the local vendors here will stand behind the shop, then the shop is able to stand behind their parts, and everyone’s happier.

Host: Okay.

Robert: So yeah, you’re gonna pay a little bit more than if you would have gone to go buy it yourself, but the thing is, is that repair shop, if they have to replace that part again, they’re not gonna charge you.

Host: Under the warranty period.

Robert: Under the warranty period.

Host: Well, that’s an important thing to know.

Robert: Yeah.

Host: So what do you do, Robert, at Doctor of Motors, if there’s a car comes in, it needs a certain part, but the part is not readily available? How do you handle that and leave someone without a car for a few days? Is there any…

Robert: There’s a few things we can do. If the car is drivable, or if the vehicle’s drivable, then we’ll say…we’ll try to button it up so that you’re driving your car. And then, I receive the part later on, and then call you when it’s ready. If not, if it’s one of those things where the car isn’t able to move, then our hands are tied, as well.

Host: From a safety perspective, or just as in function?

Robert: Just as a functional aspect.

Host: Okay.

Engine Running Rough? Here’s Why.

Sun, 10 Dec 2017 08:01:00 GMT

Host: Okay…Robert, at some point if people find that their vehicle is running rough, they start it up in the morning just going down the road, it’s not running normally, what does that mean? Is there any general indications of what could be causing a rough-running vehicle?

Robert: There’s quite a few things that can cause that. One of them is tune-up. If your spark plug or electronic ignition components are starting to fail in some way. There’s coil, plug, wires… if any of these components aren’t allowing spark to get to the cylinder where it’s supposed to, to burn the fuel, then that’s a problem.

It’s not gonna propel you forward like it’s supposed to, and that engine is gonna run rough.

Host: So a rough-running engine, that is frequently associated with some sort of electrical or electronic problem sparking the engine, is that right?

Robert: Yes, either an emission issue or a tune-up issue, something like that can definitely cause that, but then you have other fuel issues too, so I hate to say it’s mainly combined into that, because there’s quite a few different things that it can be.

Emission Systems

Host: How does it relate to emissions?

Robert: Well emissions…in your engine, it has to build up vacuum, and that vacuum has to be regulated. If it’s not regulated, then the computer doesn’t understand what’s happening and it says, “Hey, this isn’t working correctly,” and so the engine will run rough. The computer makes judgments that are incorrect, and it’ll make it run incorrectly.

Host: So it’s gonna give it its best shot. The computer is gonna try and keep your vehicle on track, running smoothly, running as efficiently. Is that it?

Robert: Efficiently yes.

Host: Efficiently as possible to keep emissions down because of the regulations we have these days.

Robert: Right. Because of those regulations, the computer is told, or its mandate is that whatever is comin’ out of the exhaust needs to be as low-emissions, as in harmful products coming out of that exhaust pipe, it has to be as minimal as possible.

Host: Clean as possible.

Robert: Clean as possible. Even if it kills other components, it doesn’t care.

Host: Like the catalytic converter, for example.

Robert: Like the catalytic converter, valves, oh yeah, it can cause a lot of other problems. But yeah, that’s its mandate, is to put out as few contaminants as possible.

Host: What would you suggest? I’m drivin’ down the road, the car seems a little bit rough, and this has happened to me, and then maybe the weather changes, something else changes, a week goes by, I say, “Well, it seems to be okay now.” Does that mean I probably had a real problem? An underlying problem?

Robert: It means you have a problem that’s happening every once in a while. So at some point it’s gonna get worse. Get it checked out.

Host: Just bring it in.

Robert: Bring it in, have us check it out, see what’s going on, and we’re gonna find out what that problem is. And hopefully if you nip it in the bud and get it sooner rather than later, it’ll cost less.

Host: Sure. Is there anything to do on an ongoing basis in terms of the emission system in the vehicle? Is there any maintenance associated with that, or is that just other parts and systems that effect the emissions?

Robert: There’s not really maintenance other than keeping up on your tune-up. Tune-up is roughly done…in this day and age, you’re gonna do it every 100,000 miles, 105,000 miles.

Host: So that involves spark plugs, and you said the throttle body.

Robert: Throttle body cleaning, yes.

Host: Okay. What else?

Robert: Spark plug wires, and also… ignition coils, correct. Now, you don’t replace ignition coils all the time, mainly when they go bad, but the thing that kills the coils is spark plug wires that are weak. When they’re weak, it means that coil has to generate more power to push electricity through them.

Host: And that strains the coil?

Robert: And that strains the coil.

Host: Wow. So really in a perfect world, all of these components need to work close to 100%. They need to be maintained.

Robert: They need to be maintained, and…

Host: Because otherwise it’s going to affect something either upstream or downstream, and you’re gonna have more problems, more cost. So it sounds like the bottom line is just have your car inspected on a pretty regular basis looking for things, because that’s the smart way to save money in the long run. Is that correct?

Robert: Correct. And the thing is, back in the ’50s and ’60s, you know, when you did a tune-up, it didn’t cost that much. Spark plugs were maybe a couple bucks. These days, since they’re requiring so much out of these engines, they’re having to run hotter, and the spark plugs of the olden times aren’t able to handle the heat and temperatures and withstand what’s going on inside that cylinder. They can’t hack it.

So that’s why they have these spark plugs that are fancier. They’re platinum, double-platinum, iridium, double-iridium. It’s because the heat and temperatures inside of the engine…it needs to be able to withstand that.

Host: So intense.

Robert: So intense. So, I’ve heard people say, “Ah, you know what, I’m not gonna replace these spark plugs,” so they’ll go and replace them with cheap, inexpensive ones because that price looks really nice. It’s a lot cheaper. The problem is that if you put a spark plug that’s only good for 30,000 miles in a car that…it was supposed to go in like a 1970s Buick, but you put it in a 2015 Honda Civic…

Host: BMW?

Robert: BMW. It’ll fit, it’ll fit. The problem is, is that in that BMW, or in a Toyota Corolla, a Honda CRV, a Ford Fusion, these aren’t that high fancy of vehicles, but they require a fancy double-iridium spark plug.

Host: But the’re high-efficiency vehicles, right?

Robert: They are, they are, there’s a reason why. So imagine, those spark plugs, they’re 100,00-mile plugs. They’re good for 100,000 miles. That’s a very long time.

Host: That’s a long time.

Robert: That is a long time. But if you put…but they’re expensive. They are expensive.

Host: How expensive? What are we talking?

Robert: You’re gonna range anywhere between, let’s say $14 and $40 a spark plug. Whereas before, you know, it was $3 a spark plug. You can see there’s a large difference. But the thing is, those $3 spark plugs, you had to replace every 20,000, 30,000 miles.

Host: Every couple of years.

Robert: Yeah, every couple of years. Or else you would have other problems. So now they’re making the duration…they’re lasting longer. They make ’em so they can last 100,000 miles. And they’re supposed to last 100,000 miles. You will get that mileage out of them.

Host: But in the bigger scheme of things, if you keep the vehicle for say 200,000 miles, a lot of people do that these days, you’re talking about replacing them once in the middle of that, and maybe you don’t replace it at the 200,000 mile, you get some other vehicle, some new vehicle.

Robert: Right, if so you imagine you’re getting a heck of a lot more time out of them. And the price after you add up what it costs…it’s probably comparable.

Host: Right, because you’re getting so much more mileage out of them.

Robert: Right, but if you put a $3 or $5 spark plug in something that’s supposed to have $20 spark plug, it’s gonna go out in 5,000 to 10,000 miles. It cannot handle it.

Host: It can’t handle the strain of the temperatures.

Robert: It can’t handle it, no.

Host: Well, what I’m picking up here, what I’m learning is that, throughout our discussions is that, it’s better to nip these things in the bud.

Robert: Always.

Host: Always, to keep your costs down, to keep your vehicle running properly, to keep from getting stranded on the side of the road. There’s really no way around this, but people try to do that, but…

Robert: It’s human nature.

Host: But at least sometimes fail. Now of course I’m pretty sure I’ve done that too. Why do I have to pay for this, you know, extra…this extra fee and this part is the same. But because of the advancement of technology and the pressure of, let’s say keeping emissions as low as possible, and keeping the fuel usage as high as possible in the sense of more miles per gallon, we have to have these super-efficient, very tightly-knit engine systems.

It’s not sloppy like it was decades ago, so you really need the right parts and somebody that knows what they’re doing to make that whole system keep running for you for a good long time.

Robert: True.

Host: Okay.

Robert: That’s it, yeah.

The Long-term Benefits of Preventative Maintenance

Sat, 02 Sep 2017 07:39:00 GMT

Preventative maintenance is the best way to avoid big repairs, and to keep your favorite ride running for a long time.

Robert, let’s talk about some basic preventative maintenance topics. Why is car maintenance important? You’ve touched on it before, but in a nutshell, why is it important for vehicle owners to regularly maintain their vehicles? What are the benefits?

Robert: Well, the whole purpose of maintaining your vehicle is so that you get those small little maintenance items done so that the bigger repairs are kept farther at bay .

Let’s say if you’re talking about a fluid, let’s say coolant, engine coolant, one of the reasons why you wanna keep that coolant as clean as possible is because any kind of dirt, or debris, or gunk that goes through the cooling system get’s clogged in the radiator. Radiators are expensive. You know, there’s no need to replace them when if you flush your fluid every two years, or as often as you see that there’s a problem, if it’s clean, those radiators will last such a long time.

Host: So really just through preventative maintenance, you can lower your overall cost. So it never makes sense to put off maintenance, is that correct?

Flush Engine Coolant

Robert: Correct. And one of the things that we see is that not necessarily the coolant will get dirty, but it’ll lose its ability to work, due to its mixture. There’s a 50/50 mixture between water and the actual coolant, which is ethylene glycol. Now, that ethylene glycol, what that chemical does is it changes the boiling point and the freezing point.

Not only that, it inhibits rust. Rust is one of those things where the inside of the engine block, if it starts to rust, it’s a cascading effect that it’ll just eat away the inside of the motor and little flecks of metal will come off,and again, clog the radiator or clog the heater core, which are very expensive repairs.

Change Engine and Transmission Oil

There’s other things that we can look at like the engine oil. Everyone has been so good about changing their engine oil that they forget other things like the transmission. Your transmission gets you from point A to point B, but there’s a lot of heat that’s created and the oil only lasts so long. So if you imagine, you replace your engine oil every 3,000 to 7,500 miles, your transmission fluid really needs to be done every 60,000 miles or as often as your manufacturer recommends.

When the fluid…when the transmission fluid that should be a reddish/pinkish color, when it starts to get brown or dark in any way, those little bits of metal or seals you don’t want recirculating through the transmission, you want outta there because the longer you keep that transmission clean, the longer it’s going to last. And transmission…the cost of transmissions range anywhere from $4,000 to I’ve seen up to $7,000 or $8,000.

Host: And at that point you might be looking at a new vehicle.

Robert: Yeah, that’s the cost of changing the vehicle.

Host: So letting maintenance go, particularly some of these critical components like the engine coolant, engine oil, transmission oil could make the difference between having a vehicle run for a very long time and run well, or completely collapse and you’re looking at a new car at some point.

Robert: Yeah. Well if you imagine the cost of a transmission fluid flush is roughly anywhere from $200 to $250. The cost of replacing the transmission is anywhere from $4,000 to $7,000 or $8,000. So that’s a large gap for such a…

Host: That’s a big risk.

Robert: It’s a big risk…

Host: Yeah.

Robert: That you shouldn’t take.

Before That Long Road Trip

Host: What about long car trips? Do you recommend that vehicle owners come to Doctor of Motors before they take a long trip to see what the status of the vehicle is in terms of maintenance?

Robert: Definitely. Any time you’re going to go on a long trip, you wanna know if your vehicle’s ready for that trip. So when you come in to Doctor of Motors, we change your oil, we perform an inspection, we check and top off all your fluids, and we’ll let you know if there’s something going on that’s going to give you a problem on your trip, we’ll let you know. If there’s something that can wait till later on, we’ll let you know that, too.

Host: Perhaps like the coolant is getting dirty?

Robert: Correct.

Host: Not necessarily something that has to be done immediately…

Robert: Correct.

Host: …but should be done when you come back.

Robert: Correct.

Do You Need a Tune-up?

Host: What about a tune-up? We hear a lot about tune-ups. Does that have much meaning with modern cars? When I think of tune-ups, I think of a 1965 Mustang or something like where you really did have to go in and fool around with the carburetor and carefully gap the spark plugs and… Where are we now? What does a tune-up mean today?

Robert: Well, these days we don’t…longer…we no longer have distributors, distributor caps, rotors, and most cars are even getting rid of spark plug wires. They have the coil directly sitting on top of the spark plug.

Host: Integrated with the spark plug?

Robert: Correct. So what needs to be done for a tune-up, every car is different and the manufacturer gives different recommendations for each car, but roughly around the standard is going to be 100,000 miles, which means they put a lot of heavier metals and more expensive pieces in that spark plug to make it last 100,000 miles. So they’re no longer as inexpensive as they used to be, but there’s other pieces that don’t need to be replaced.

Host: So what’s the difference, Robert, between a tune-up and regular maintenance that you would have done, at say, 50,000 miles or 25,000?

Robert: A tune-up would consist of replacing the spark plugs and cleaning the throttle body of carbon buildup . The reason why that…

Cleaning the Throttle Body

Host: What’s the throttle body?

Robert: The throttle body is the portion, when you step on the gas pedal, it no longer adds gas. Back in the olden days when we had carburetors, when you stepped on the gas pedal, it literally added gas. These days it adds air. And there is a big flap or a metal flap that when you step on that pedal, that flaps turns vertical and allows air to come through depending on how hard you step on the gas.

What happens is carbon or a black soot starts to buildup in there. And it gets on the sensors, it gets on the air control motor, which is the motor that actually controls and stabilizes your car at an idle. And if that carbon builds up too much, it’ll damage those pieces. So it’s a good idea to get that cleaned out.

Host: Sounds like it could lead to a “Check Engine” light situation again.

Robert: That’s how we find it.

Host: Okay. So everything’s related to everything else, it turns out?

Robert: It’s all intertwined, and the vehicle driving down the road is a harmony of many things working together.

Host: So you mentioned spark plugs and the throttle body, is there anything else that’s done during a tune-up that you’d like to tell us about?

Robert: Not really. I mean, those are the two main things other than maybe you’re changing your engine oil. But we really don’t put those two things together. changing the oil and a tune-up. It would be I need my oil changed and a tune-up.

Do Batteries Require Maintenance?

Host: What about car batteries? Do they still require maintenance? Is it necessary to come in and have your car battery checked, or is it, again, just a “Check Engine” light situation where it indicates that it might be…might have a problem, or is it just a matter of watching the calendar?

Robert: Batteries typically last anywhere from four to five years. Now, more wear happens on the battery or the battery gets more abuse living in a colder climate or a hot climate. So if you lived in an area that was constantly 75 degrees, your battery would probably last 9 years, but we don’t live anywhere in those areas. We live in Chico where it’s sometimes 110 degrees.

Host: We just imagine it’s 75.

Robert: And sometimes it freezes at night. So because of that, the standard for our area here in Butte County, Chico, is you’re looking at, you know, four to five years.

Host: Okay.

Robert: And what happens is when we replace them, these cars are so computer controlled these days that it’s not…you don’t just disconnect two cables and you’re done. We put an alternative power source connected up to your car so you don’t lose the computer’s memory. That’s a key component or else you’re going to have drivability issues, it’s going to shift funny. It’ll get back to normal after a little while, after maybe, you know, 20 or 30 miles of driving, but it is a little scary.

Host: So there’s a process to changing the battery?

Robert: There is.

Host: How do you know the battery’s going out?

Robert: One of the key signs is when you go to crank it over in the morning, does it sound a little slower than it used to be? If it does, then that is a telltale sign. Go to an auto repair shop, have it checked out. That way you can get it replaced before it leaves you stuck in a parking lot or stuck at home when you need to get to work.

Slow Cranking Could Mean a Failing Battery or Alternator

Host: But it could also indicate other problems, right? It could be a charging issue, an alternator issue conceivably…

Robert: It could.

Host: …if the battery is still good. Do you see that happening much or is it typically just the battery goes out?

Robert: Usually what I see is that a battery that’s low or weak. And if you imagine a weak battery, a weak battery I like to think of a bucket, a bucket that has a hole halfway through it. So the level is never able to get past 50%. Now the alternator, its purpose is to fill that batter up tippy top, and so it’ll constantly fill it up, fill it up, fill it up, fill it up until it just burns itself out. So when I see that a battery’s been neglected, an alternator’s not too far behind.

Follow Your Manufacturer’s Fluid and Filter Maintenance Recommendations

Sat, 02 Sep 2017 07:31:00 GMT

Basic Fluid and Filter Maintenance Starts with Engine Oil

Robert: Routine car maintenance would start out with an oil change. So if you came to Doctor of Motors and got an oil change, we’re going to perform a vehicle inspection that goes over all those managements items which are: coolant quality level, transmission fluid quality and level, power steering fluid, are there…is it low, are there any leaks? Your tires, batteries, brakes, and filters. These are the main things that we look at when we’re doing an inspection, especially if you’re driving somewhere or if you need your car everyday as your daily driver, you need it to get to work, but you don’t you want to leave you on the side of the road.

Host: Well let’s talk about some of those just quickly. Engine oil, how often should it be changed?

Robert: There’s a few different types of cars out there. It’s anywhere from 3,000 to 10,000. So some of the BMWs out there, they’re at about 10,000 miles. So that’s roughly, you know, every 10 to 11 months, not very often. So especially when you get that oil changed, that’s the perfect time to have the mechanic check all your fluids, check if there’s any leaks, check if there’s any problems that are going to give you an issue or cost you more money down the road.

Host: But generally, follow the manufacturer’s recommendation, or do you think it should be done more often?

Robert: Well, the manufacturer recommends, let’s say on a standard vehicle, 3,000 to 5,000. You’re going to stick to 3,000 to 5,000 because that’s the conventional type of oil you’re using. If maintenance says, do your oil change every 10,000 miles, you have to use synthetic, you cannot use a conventional oil.

Host: A special oil.

Robert: A special oil, correct.

Super-premium Synthetic Oil

Host: What about for people who just wanna keep their car for a long time, they love their car, should they be upgrading their oil? Does it make sense to use the super premium synthetic oils?

Robert: You don’t have to. It’s not going to…yeah, I wouldn’t say that it’s any better other than it’s going to go longer. But specifically, synthetic oil is meant for vehicles that run hotter, and it’s not run hotter like looking at your temperature gauge, they specifically run a higher temperature. So what happens is they need an oil that’s not going to cook and turn into a varnish. See, if you put a conventional oil in a vehicle that needs synthetic, it’s literally going to have a layer on the inside of the oiling system, that’s a varnish. And over time that varnish is going to flake off and plug some internal component.

Host: What about high mileage vehicles?

Robert: Specifically high mileage vehicles, what they’re doing for that is they’re putting a higher weight or a thicker weight. Because the clearances are no longer as thin as they used to be and gaskets are starting to leak a little bit now. So they try to put in a little bit thicker oil.

Host: Do you recommend it?

Robert: It helps, yeah.

Flushing and Replacing Engine Coolant

Host: What about engine coolant, how often should we be talking about replacing it or flushing it?

Robert: Coolant last last every, let me say 25,000 miles to about every 100,000 miles depending on the color or what type your fluid is. Some of these pickup trucks, they have a yellow which is a 100,000 mile coolant. It’s meant because they really don’t want it to rust inside that cooling system, so they have a higher ethylene glycol or a different chemical in there to make it last as long as possible.

Host: Why trucks in particular?

Robert: They run hotter, diesels. Yeah, they want…they’re running aluminum blocks. The reason why something costs a little more to put in there is because they’re trying to stop an even larger repair down the road that they know is a common problem.

Host: Which we talked about before. So if the engine coolant is not clean, then that could lead to other problems later?

Robert: Correct.

Transmission Fluid

Host: What about transmission fluid?

Robert: Transmission fluid is one of those things where transmissions are so expensive that you wanna keep that fluid clean. And some manufacturers will say, like BMW likes to say that they have lifetime fluid. Now, what BMW considers lifetime is 100,000 miles because they know that the average BMW owner is going to keep their car for 100,000 miles and buy it again. So just because it says lifetime doesn’t mean that it never needs to be changed.

Host: Let’s talk about power steering fluid. Is that something to be concerned about or is it just a matter of keeping it leveled up, or is there a quality issue there too that could affect the engine?

Robert: Power steering systems run in such high heat and if you imagine how much strength it takes for you to turn your steering wheel, if you ever have your car turned off and you try to turn your steering wheel, just imagine that’s how much force those components are using to turn those wheels while you’re driving. So yeah, the fluid needs to be constantly checked every time you get your oil changed, maintain, if it’s dirty, flush it. It’s so much cheaper to flush that fluid than it is to replace the power steering pump or the rack and pinion, because these are expensive pieces and they don’t last forever.

Host: Sure. So does it make sense to flush it on a schedule or just wait and keep an eye on the fluid?

Robert: Wait until you’re told to by your mechanic.

Battery Replacement

Host: How about battery? We’ve talked about a little bit, but is something like five years is time to replace a battery even if your car starts all right?

Robert: Well it depends on the type of battery too. So if you get a…if you buy an inexpensive battery, it’s not going to last as long as a good quality battery. I’ve seen some of those last a year and a half, two years. So looking at what the cost is to buy it, to install it, and then getting stuck on the side of the road, spend a couple of extra bucks and get the correct good battery in there. That’s going to leave you, you know, with a good running car for five, six years.

Host: Are there some brands that you like?

Robert: AutoZone, NAPA, and O’Reilly. Their higher brand batteries are very good. There are some car manufacturers, Volvo, BMW, Mercedes, they specifically need the manufacturer battery. They just do.

Host: So it depends on the vehicle?

Robert: Depends on the vehicle.

Oil and Air Filters

Host: How about filters then? We’ve…we touched in other post on air cabin filter. What about oil filters, air filters? Tell us about changing those or maintaining those.

Robert: Your air filter should be changed when you could no longer see through it. A little bit of dirt in there is not the end of the world, it’s okay. But the computer uses the air flow coming through the engine and calculates how much fuel is going to be needed. So if it gets too clogged, then the computer’s not going to know if there’s enough air flow and so it won’t put as much gas in the cylinder when is needed, you’re going to notice a power issue. So something as simple as an air filter can…yeah, it can give you a power issue.

Host: So it can affect the performance of the car?

Robert: Definitely.

Host: And how often should we be changing the air filter?

Robert: Anywhere from say 15,000 miles to around 25,000 miles. So every year and a half roughly is a quick little guesstimate.

Host: Every one to two years. Is that depend on conditions?

Robert: Yeah, it does. If you’re here in Chico where the orchards leave a lot of pollen and dust, yeah, that’s…

Host: So it’s not just dirt, anything that’s in the air could clog the filter.

Robert: Correct. We’ve seen a simple leaf, simple leaf cause a “Check Engine” light and the vehicle to run so rough, had to be towed in.

Host: Because it blocked the airflow.

Robert: Yup.

Auto Maintenance FAQ’s

Sat, 02 Sep 2017 07:23:00 GMT

How long do wiper blades generally last?

You know, depending on the heat, wiper blades can last quite a long time, upwards of two, maybe even three, four years. Here in Chico though, when the wiper arm or the wiper blade is sitting on the windshield, it literally cooks it during the summertime. So, for optimal performance, I would suggest replacing your wiper blades once every year or every other year, preferably in the early fall.

What are signs a timing belt needs replacement?

Now, there’s no indication as far as looking at the belt. If you look at an old belt and a new belt, pretty hard to tell the difference. But what happens is the belt will, the teeth will fall off, or you’ll start to get a little rip in the edge of it. So, each manufacturer has a different recommended mileage or date time. It’s usually anywhere from 60,000 or 5 years, or 105,000 and 10 years.

Funny story how that came to be, all timing belts were recommended at 60,000 miles. Then, Consumer Reports started monitoring the cost of a car over a 10-year period. So, magically after that, all of the car manufacturers started saying that a timing belt was due at 105,000. So nothing really changed there. They just pushed the maintenance off until after Consumer Reports reported it.

Is it true that cars with 50,000 or more miles have timing chain problems?

The only time we ever see that is when the oil changes were done with the incorrect oil. So, if your car says it needs synthetic oil and you’re putting conventional oil in it, you’re going to have problems like that. Because the timing chain tensioner is powered by the oil pressure. And if oil pressure isn’t able to build up at that timing chain tensioner, then yeah, you’re going to have those issues where you’re not having enough pressure put on the timing chain. It’s going to click. It’s going to knock.

The guides that keep the chain in place, they get worn because not the correct amount of oil is lubricating it. So, it starts out with the oil change. Use the correct oil and do them on time. Going a thousand or a couple thousand miles overdue really can affect the oiling component’s performance and life.

Do I need a new oil filter every time I get an oil change?

The manufacturer on some vehicles will say you can do it every other oil change. But with the cost of oil filters these days, all oil shops or all shops that change oil, they put that in with the cost of the oil change. So just do it at the same time.

How often should my vehicle’s fluid levels be checked and refilled?

If you have a leak in any one of those areas, then it needs to be checked as often as every time you get gas. Other than that, a standard vehicle that someone’s been keeping up on it, every time you get an oil change is good enough.

How will my vehicle be affected if there’s too much or too little air pressure in the tires?

Well if you imagine if you were to get a bowling ball and push it down a very long road, it would almost go forever. Now if you get a flat tire and push it, it’s really hard to push a flat tire. So, as you can see, the more tire pressure in your tire, the better mileage you’re going to get. But tires have regulations and they’ll state on the side the max allowable pressure. Those pressures should be set according to what the tire says. Or else, too much pressure in a tire can blow it out.

Host: For safety reasons then.

Robert: For safety reasons, yeah.

Host: All right, so better mileage with higher pressure, but don’t exceed the recommended highest pressure of the tire.

Robert: Correct.

More about Wiper Blades

Smog Tests: Recommended Maintenance Makes It More Likely You’ll Pass The First Time

Fri, 01 Sep 2017 07:52:00 GMT

Required Smog Tests (Also Called Smog Checks) Reduce Air Pollution Dramatically

Host: Let’s talk about smog tests. Why are they so important to the consumer?

Robert: Well, they may seem like a inconvenience to the consumer, but really, they’re there…smog regulations are there to make sure that less pollutants go into our atmosphere and so us and our future generations are able to breathe clean air.

Host: So they’re important to everyone.

Robert: They really are.

How Often Do You Need a Smog Test?

Host: And how often do you need your vehicle, your used vehicle to come in to a…for a smog check?

Robert: Well let’s start with brand new. If you buy a brand new vehicle, in California you have six years before your first smog check is due. If you buy a used vehicle, and I mean if you buy a used vehicle that is one year old, it is based on county and city depending on how populated the area is. Here in Chico, California, we’re every other year. Now if you live in San Francisco or Sacramento, it’s every year.

Host: Tighter regulations in some of the cities then.

Robert: Correct. Now you go to Lake Almanor, Chester, some of the…Plumas County, some of the smaller areas, they’re one time. When you buy your car, you smog it and that’s it.

Host: Is it a lengthy process to do a smog check, or does that just vary depending on the vehicle?

Robert: It really varies depending on the year. So with the newer machines, model year 2000 vehicle, you can be in and out in 10, 15 minutes. If you have a 2000 or older vehicle, some of them require more testing, more inspection, and it can be upwards of 45 minutes to an hour.

Check Engine Light = Automatic Fail

Host: What percentage of vehicles do actually fail the smog check?

Robert: Model 2000…or year 2000 vehicles and newer, very few are failing. The reason why is because if the “Check Engine” light is on , if it’s running rough, pretty much you know it’s going to fail. And the shop knows that if you have a “Check Engine” light on, they won’t even really run the test, they’ll just say, “We need to do some testing to find out what’s wrong with the vehicle first,” because there’s no use in failing your smog right away.

Host: Which would mean you’d have to take the smog test over again.

Robert: Correct. Well you still have to fix it and then the way the process works is if your “Check Engine” light is on, you need to get that “Check Engine” light fixed. As soon as you get that fixed, whatever that repair may be, the shop then clears the computer memory and wipes it clean. So from that point on, you need to drive the vehicle, depending on the model vehicle, anywhere from 20 miles to plus. I’ve seen it go over 300 miles that it takes before the computer has done enough testing and monitoring, because these are called computer monitors. As soon as it’s done enough monitoring, then it’s ready for smog.

Host: So there might be a delay between…

Robert: There’s definitely a delay.

Host: …between the repair or whatever’s required to reach well-running status. It could be a day, or two, or maybe longer than that.

Robert: Well the sad thing is is it may be running just fine. But that light may be on because let’s say your windshield wiper computer is having a problem. Well, you’d think, “Hey, that’s not really related to smog. Why should it matter?” As far as smog regulations are concerned, if the “Check Engine” light is on, it’s going to fail smog.

Why Do Cars Fail Their Smog Check?

Host: What are the typical problems with the vehicle that you see that would cause it to fail a smog check?

Robert: Emissions related problems, which are going back to if you imagine your gas tank, bottom half is the liquid, the top half is the vapor, if that’s not completely sealed and contained, as in, let’s say you forgot to put the gas cap on after getting gas, that’s very common. If you look on your gas cap, it’ll say, “Must tighten three…at least three clicks.” The reason why is they wanna make sure it gets nice and tight. Because if the computer is able…the computer, what it’ll do is it’ll pull those vapors out, and if it notices that there’s a leak inside there, it automatically kicks on that “Check Engine” light saying, you need to get this repaired.

Host: What about ignitions, spark plugs, and wires, and distributors, and so forth?

Robert: Same thing. Whenever the engine is not able to burn all of the fuel and use it to propel you forward, then that’s a problem. So it loses its ability the older those parts get. So there’s a designated mileage per vehicle per model indicating what needs to be replaced.

Maintaining Your Vehicle to Ace the Smog Test

Host: And previous maintenance, does it have a role in this as well? If someone maintains their vehicle well, is it more likely that they would pass the smog check?

Robert: Oh definitely. Definitely.

If you maintain your vehicle, it will give you less problems and it’ll be cheaper in the long run. I had a girl the other day, she had a power steering pump and a rack and pinion that was bad. It was going to cost $1,200 something dollars to get it all repaired. And I looked back in the history, three years ago, it said, “Replace power steering fluid.” The year after that, it said, “Replace power steering fluid, very dirty.”

So if we forget about maintaining the car, as in simple fluids, oil changes, belts, hoses, those little things that don’t seem like that big of a deal, or they’re not stopping you from driving right now, you can still drive, but if you want to have less of a repair bill, take care of those little important things first that way it doesn’t leave you on the side of the road.

How to Make Your Brake System Last

Fri, 01 Sep 2017 07:47:00 GMT

Brake Life Depends on Your Driving Habits

Host: Robert, let’s talk about brakes. Clearly these are an important safety feature of the vehicle. How often should you replace your brakes typically?

Robert: That’s a hard question because it’s depending on how you drive. So there’s the person who drives in the city, and they’re a stop-and-go driver. They like to step on the gas and get to the next stop light and then slam on the brakes to slow down before they run the light.

Host: Which must increase the wear on the brake system.

Robert: Yes, it does. Then there’s the little old lady, who, she cruises along, doesn’t drive too fast, she’s very easy on her brakes, her brakes are going to last a very long time.

Host: What would be a typical range?

Robert: Typical ranges, people are not super hard on their brakes but a little bit easier. We all have things to do and we’re all in a rush and brakes are really one of the last things on our mind, until it’s a problem. So one of the things I always tell people is that the main thing that makes your brakes last or go out faster would be overheating the rotors. How can we…how do you overheat rotors?

Avoid Overheating Brake Rotors

Host: Tell us first what a rotor is.

Robert: Okay. A rotor is the disk, the metal disk, that is bolted to the wheel, and the brake pads literally squish the rotor to slow the wheel down. Now you have 4 wheels, so they’re all working together, but the front wheels are 70% of your braking power, which means they’re going to go up first, you’re going to do two brake jobs to every one brake job in the rear. And so what I tell people about making their brakes last as long as possible, if you’re cruising on the freeway and you’re going to get off on that off-ramp, try to slow down a little bit before or tap on the brake pedal so you don’t get them too hot.

Host: Tap and release.

Robert: Tap and release.

Host: So that’s a case where you could conceivably, or especially if you ride the brakes inadvertently, some people I’ve seen…I think my father did that a long time, it used to drive me crazy. He would sort of keep one foot on the brake pedal, just a little bit.

Robert: Yes. If you can imagine…

Host: Just in case.

Robert: …the friction that’s created to slow you down will literally make those rotors glow. It’s too hot. And they can’t handle that.

Host: And what happens when they get too hot?

Robert: What happens is it leaves a small indent, which is literally the size of the pad. So next time when you’re driving down the road and you go to use those brakes at higher speeds, you’re going to feel…you step on the brake pedal and your steering wheel will shake. It’s a scary feeling and it just gets worse.

Host: So once they’ve gotten that far, you need maintenance on the brakes.

Robert: Yes, it just gets worse, it doesn’t…it never gets better.

Re-surfacing vs. Replacing Rotors

Host: Do you think it’s best to replace the rotors or resurface them?

Robert: The way it works is the amount of metal that is on the rotor is how easy it is to get rid of that heat. How quickly it can get rid of it. So the less metal you have, the faster those rotors will warp and be damaged. And as soon as they warp, you have to either resurface them or replace them. You can only resurface them a couple times before they’re trash.

Host: Do you recommend resurfacing, or do you think it’s…if the budget is there just replace?

Robert: In my opinion, if you replace them you’re spending more money on getting a quality new part that is going to last you longer than it is paying the mechanic to resurface them for a part that’s not going to last as long.

Robert: For the labor.

Host: So in the long run, sounds like you’re saying it’s ideally just replace rotors.

Robert: For the consumer, you’re going to get a better product. It’s going to be cheaper in the long run just to replace them.

What Does the Brake Warning Light Indicate?

Host: So what does it mean, Robert, when the brake warning light appears on the dashboard? What does that indicate? Is that wear or is something else potentially wrong with the system?

Robert: It could either be wear or there could be…the fluid is getting low.

Host: The brake fluid.

Robert: The brake fluid. Now the brake fluid, when you step on the brakes, it’s not cable operating. They literally have tubes that go from where your foot is all the way to each wheel, and it pushes that liquid to squish the pads and make the vehicle slow down. If there’s any air in there, your foot…or your pedal will go too far, and you’ll notice there’s something wrong. If there’s air in the system, that’s not good. There’s either a leak of some kind.

What Can Go Wrong With the Brake System?

Host: What are the typical things that go wrong with the brake system? Is it…we talked about the rotors and the pads, which happen at the wheels, but what else?

Robert: Typical things that go wrong is squeaks, noises. If you’re brakes are very noisy. What I’ve found is that previous owner who had the car put just pads on it…on there and didn’t resurface the rotors or didn’t replace them. It’s a quick and cheap way to get you where you’re going, but it’s very noisy and irritating and it’ll drive someone nuts.

Host: So they really should be done at the same time, the pads and the rotors. What about the brake cylinder and contaminants in the brake fluid, is it…do you see that at all?

Robert: Now the brake fluid, it should be a clear amber color. When it starts to get dark, you’re actually seeing…that black color is coming from the seals that are deteriorating and they’re literally flecking off. So that material in there, after a while it turns into a sandpaper or a sandy material. So you’re literally causing more wear on the master cylinder, the wheel cylinders, the calipers, the very expensive ABS unit, yeah.

Host: So if I open the hood of my car and I look at the…

Robert: Master cylinder.

Host: The master cylinder, part of it…part of that is viewable, right, you can see the level of the fluid in there.

Robert: Correct.

Host: Can I look at that fluid and tell if it’s contaminated?

Robert: It’s very easy to tell. If you have your master cylinders, you open up the cap, you look in there, if you can see through the fluid you’re most likely okay.

Host: All right. But if the fluid is dark, then that indicates…

Robert: Dark, cloudy in any way.

Host: Okay, that indicates a problem with the system.

Robert: Yes.

Host: Which could be the seals going bad.

Robert: Yes.

Host: Or something else.

Get a Full Inspection of the Brake System

Robert: And simple maintenance is to flush out that dirty fluid, put nice, clean fluid in there. And all those expensive components will last such a long time.

Host: And Doctor Motors can do the brake flush? Is that what it’s called?

Robert: We can do that. Every time you come in for an oil change, all of these fluids are inspected and we let you know if there’s a problem.

Host: If a customer comes in and replaces the rotors, for example, and the pads, what other typical work on the brake system is performed to make sure that the entire system is working?

Robert: A full inspection of the hoses, the wheel cylinders, master cylinders, calipers, the condition, age is all determined is it still good or is there a problem? If we think there’s going to be a problem in the next six months, we’ll let you know.

More about Car Brake System Maintenance

Cabin Air Filters: Change This Little-known Filter to Maintain Air Quality Inside Your Vehicle

Thu, 31 Aug 2017 08:00:00 GMT

Did you know your vehicle has a hidden filter that treats air inside the passenger compartment? Ignoring this inexpensive maintenance item can lead to costly repairs.

Robert, what are cabin air filters, what’s their purpose?

Robert: Well the cabin air filters, it’s not the filter inside the engine, it’s the filter that’s under your dash, which is specifically for your heater and AC. What happens is, when you have rain or dust and debris, it goes in through your vents, gets blocked in that filter, and your blower motor which is the fan for the air that blows on your face, it has a hard time pushing the air through.

So it can burn out that motor, it can burn out the power resistor that helps that motor work. So it’s one of those things where the manufacturer recommends every 12,000 to 15,000 miles , which is roughly every year. Sometimes that can be overkill, but if you do it at least…or at the most once a year, you’ll be fine.

The Bad Things That Happen to Cabin Air Filters

Host: And what kinds of things happen to the filters, though, they get clogged, do they get mold, do they rot ?

Robert: They get all of the above. See what happens is when it rains, the water hits your windshield and that water goes down into the vents that are in between your hood and your windshield. Now those vents direct water out of the vehicle, but sometimes we’re near a tree that has leaves and pine needles, even just dust and debris go down those vents, they get plugged…or they plug the drain holes and it literally starts to fill up with water.

Imagine having stagnant water inside your car, now you’re starting to have moldy smells, or mold issues inside your vents, which, I have little kids, you know, and the last thing I want is my little kids to be breathing moldy air just because I turned on the heater or the A/C.

Replacing the Filter

Host: I’m guessing that most people don’t know about this. Is it common knowledge that you need to replace the cabin air filter for your own personal health and environmental reasons?

Robert: Most people don’t even know they have one.

Host: Is it a simple process?

Robert: It’s very simple, yeah, it’s behind your glove box. Usually a technician can do it, or even you can do it at home. It’s something as easy as removing the glove box itself. There’s an access port under there and a couple screws or a clip and it’s in and out. It’s not too difficult and it doesn’t even cost too much. Also there’s other electrical problems. If that fills up with water, it can seriously cost a lot of money.

Host: So again, it’s one of these cascading problems if you don’t properly maintain your car.

Robert: If you don’t properly maintain your car.

Host: Wow, that’s quite amazing actually, so a little…how much does a typical cabin air filter cost to replace?

Cabin Air Filters are Inexpensive, Unless You Ignore Them

Robert: Anywhere from, say if a person did it themselves, from $25 on up to $75.

Host: So not a big expense.

Robert: Not too bad.

I actually did a Lexus the other day, which was a 2010 Lexus, and he never knew he even had a cabin air filter, but again, it filled up with gunk and debris and it overheated the computer controlled blower motor. It was a $900 blower motor because it was a fancy one. [Avoid downstream repairs by replacing your cabin air filter every year.]

When to Change Your Cabin Air Filter

Host: Is there a best time of year to do this, or does it matter at all?

Robert: You know, I would say spring. Spring is a good time to get it take care of because the winter is when all the rain has come through and debris and it blocked off or it’s clogged. So the spring is the best time to get that filter, replace it, and have a shop go in there and clean out that debris that builds up.

Host: Where is the debris in the vehicle?

Robert: The debris is in the drain holes which is underneath the vehicle, inside the engine area. They’re usually very hard to get to, so if you have a technician or your mechanic when he’s working on the car, just have him clean that out at the same time.

Host: So the air goes through these passages before it gets to the cabin air filter, is that right?

Robert: Yes, there’s actually two sections. There’s the engine compartment where the vents…water drains down the vents.

Host: Where we usually see those is near the windshield wipers, correct?

Robert: Right, by the windshield wipers, that’s where it’s draining down. Now there’s drain holes on either side of your vehicle to get that water out. If that water fills up, it’ll go up into the dash and into where your cabin air filter is, your blower motor is, and all those electronics.

More about cabin air filters on cars.com

Check Engine Light: Watch Your Vehicle’s Warning System to Avoid Costly Repairs

Mon, 24 Jul 2017 08:09:00 GMT

If your “Check Engine Light” comes on, bring your vehicle in as soon as possible. We have all the latest tools to diagnose the issue and get you back on the road quickly.

We’re here today with Robert Lugo of Doctor of Motors, talking about auto maintenance and what you need to know about maintaining your car. Robert, let’s talk about the check engine light today. Why does the light come on in your vehicle? When that comes on, what does it mean?

Robert: Well, pretty much the computer, or the vehicle, has only one way of telling you that something is wrong. And the computer has anywhere from 5,000 to 8,000 different codes, which are different areas of the vehicle that are having a problem.

Host: Five thousand?

Robert: Yes. So when that happens, that’s the indication for you to get ready to find the nearest shop.

Host: Does it have anything to do with tune up?

Robert: Tuning…vehicles these days are all computer controlled. So there’s not necessarily tuning. The computer tunes it to its most optimal running settings at all times. If there’s something that’s out of whack that it can’t control, then it turns that light on to say, “This is beyond my limit” and send it in to fix it.

Host: So the computer tries to control the vehicle, but if it gets beyond the capacity of the computer to self fix…

Robert: Definitely, oh, definitely.

Common Check Engine Light Errors

Host: Then the alert comes out. So what would be some examples of the…what errors do you see most commonly?

Robert: One of the most common things that I see is…you’ll be driving down the road and the check engine light starts to flash. This is an indication that the computer has already done everything that it can to lessen the amount of fuel going through the engine so that it won’t burn as hot.

And to get even more technical about it, what’s coming out of the exhaust needs to be as clean air as possible. So smog rules, what they’ve stated, is that there needs to be as little amounts of carbon monoxide, any combustible, any type of fuel whether it be oil, or fuel coming through there. So you have a catalytic converter. That catalytic converter…its job is meant to burn whatever the engine wasn’t able to burn. That’s what it comes down to.

Now, the computer is constantly monitoring that catalytic converter by what’s going into it and what’s coming out of it. And if too much fuel is going in then the computer tries to help out by giving the engine less fuel. Well, when there’s a problem, what will happen is that too much fuel is going through, the catalytic converter doesn’t care if it’s a lot or a little. It just does its job. And it will do it until it kills itself because that’s how the car is manufactured.

So what happens is the reason why that light comes on is because the computer is monitoring the temperature of the catalytic converter and when it gets too high, as in it’s starting to melt or to damage it in some way, then that light flashes and that means stop.

Host: Stop the vehicle?

Robert: Stop the vehicle, pull over, and get it to a shop.

Host: Are the signals coming from the lamp, the light on the dashboard, are they consistent between brands of cars, or is every car different?

Robert: There are rules and regulations saying that they have to be the same because you shouldn’t have to, whether you drive a Ford or whether you drive a VW, you shouldn’t have to know these things. It should be generic.

Evaporative Emission System Errors

Host: So other than, say, the fuel mixture has gone wrong, what other sorts of errors pop up commonly?

Robert: One of the other most common ones is evap codes.

Host: What does that mean?

Robert: Evap is evaporative emmission system. To make that as simple to understand is you have your gas tank, the bottom half of the gas tank is the liquid, the top half is the vapors. They want those vapors to be controlled and pulled into the engine and burned, just like they would fuel.

All of this is to keep our atmosphere nice and clean and healthier, just like Los Angeles. If you’ve seen there, the smog has really gone down in the last 20 years. They’ve done a great job.

Host: A remarkable change. Much better.

Robert: Yes, but it’s taken a lot of work and us all working together with these cars to make this happen.

Fasten Your Gas Cap Tightly and Do Not ‘Top-Off”

Host: I didn’t know that. So the vapor in the tank is actually part of the system as well, in the gas tank?

Robert: Yes, you expend more damaging fumes into the atmosphere when you’re getting gas than when you’re driving the 400 miles that it takes to empty that gas.

Host: Which is why they say, always push the nozzle completely onto the connection.

Robert: They say, “don’t top off”.

Host: Okay. And, Robert, so if I let that light just stay on, what are the possible consequences? It sounds like it could be serious to the engine. So is it just a smog control and performance issue, or is there something that could happen that’s potentially damaging to the engine itself?

Robert: Well, there’s really no way to tell unless you take it to a professional and say, “Hey my check engine light came on. Can you test it?” The thing is, you’re not going to know if it’s something minor that’s okay to let sit for a little while or if it’s a big problem.

If you let it stay on for a year, the car will probably still drive because its main purpose is to get you from point A to point B. But you don’t know when there’s a problem and you’re not going to know when there’s a problem if you don’t get it addressed.

Host: So the best practice is to go to a shop that you trust as soon as possible.

Robert: Correct.

Host: And Doctor of Motors has the diagnostic equipment to do that?

Robert: All the latest equipment to do that, yes.

Check Engine Lights and Smog Tests

Host: All the latest equipment. If the check engine light is on, is it ever possible to pass a smog check or is that an automatic fail?

Robert: That is an automatic fail. Now, as far as smog regulations, shops are not allowed to ask you if that check engine light is on. There’s a lot of weird rules they have. It’s one of those things that they’re not allowed to ask you. So the more honest you are with the smog shop when you let them know. If you tell them, “Hey, I just had my battery replaced,” or if it was just in for an oil change, let them know. The shops are here to help you to figure out if you’re ready for smog because no one wants to waste their time.

The shop doesn’t want to waste your time and you don’t want to waste the shop’s time because you wanna get in, get your smog, and get out.

Resetting the Check Engine Light

Host: Sure. Is it possible to reset the light yourself and is there any reason you would ever want to do that, or is that just a bad idea?

Robert: There is ways to do it. One thing is disconnecting the battery, letting it sit for anywhere from 10 minutes to 30 minutes. Of course, this is not recommended because it causes other issues.

Host: What issues?

Robert: Well, just the other day, someone came in and they had replaced their battery and their radio has said “code” on it. What that means is that the battery was disconnected without properly supplying power to the computer and so their radio lost its code, which means it thinks it was being stolen. So now to get that code back, either you look in the glove box for a card that came from the factory saying, “This is your radio code,” but people lose it. It happens. So what then happens is you need to have the radio removed and get the serial number off the radio.

It’s a process. It’s a process that you just don’t need to deal with if you just got the battery replaced by someone who knew what they were doing.

Host: So best practice on check engine lamp or light is if you see it coming on for any reasons, get into the shop straight away.

Robert: As soon as you can.

Dealer Service is Not Required to Protect Your New Car Warranty

Sun, 04 Jan 2015 09:26:00 GMT

What is a warranty?

A warranty is a promise, often made by a manufacturer, to stand behind its product or to fix certain defects or malfunctions over a period of time. The warranty pays for any covered repairs or part replacements during the warranty period.

If you own a car, you know how important it is to keep up with routine maintenance and repairs. But can a dealer refuse to honor the warranty that came with your new car if someone else does the routine maintenance or repairs?

The Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the nation’s consumer protection agency, says no. In fact, it’s illegal for a dealer to deny your warranty coverage simply because you had routine maintenance or repairs performed by someone else. Routine maintenance often includes oil changes, tire rotations, belt replacement, fluid checks and flushes, new brake pads, and inspections. Maintenance schedules vary by vehicle make, model and year; the best source of information about routine scheduled maintenance is your owner’s manual.

Do I have to use the dealer for repairs and maintenance to keep my warranty in effect?

No. An independent mechanic, a retail chain shop, or even you yourself can do routine maintenance and repairs on your vehicle. In fact, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, which is enforced by the FTC, makes it illegal for manufacturers or dealers to claim that your warranty is void or to deny coverage under your warranty simply because someone other than the dealer did the work.

That said, there may be certain situations where a repair may not be covered. For example, if you or your mechanic replaced a belt improperly and your engine is damaged as a result, your manufacturer or dealer may deny responsibility for fixing the engine under the warranty. However, according to the FTC, the manufacturer or dealer must be able to demonstrate that it was the improper belt replacement — rather than some other defect — that caused the damage to your engine. The warranty would still be in effect for other parts of your car.

Will using ‘aftermarket’ or recycled parts void my warranty?

No. An ‘aftermarket’ part is a part made by a company other than the vehicle manufacturer or the original equipment manufacturer. A ‘recycled’ part is a part that was made for and installed in a new vehicle by the manufacturer or the original equipment manufacturer, and later removed from the vehicle and made available for resale or reuse. Simply using an aftermarket or recycled part does not void your warranty.

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act makes it illegal for companies to void your warranty or deny coverage under the warranty simply because you used an aftermarket or recycled part. Still, if it turns out that the aftermarket or recycled part was itself defective or wasn’t installed correctly, and it causes damage to another part that is covered under the warranty, the manufacturer or dealer has the right to deny coverage for that part and charge you for any repairs.

The FTC says the manufacturer or dealer must show that the aftermarket or recycled part caused the need for repairs before denying warranty coverage.

Tips To Avoid Warranty Issues

Here’s how to get the most out of your vehicle’s warranty:

Learn more about warranties.

Minimize Car Trouble. Preventive Maintenance can Help Avoid Costly Problems

Sun, 04 Jan 2015 09:23:00 GMT

Unexpected car trouble is a headache. Here’s how to minimize it.

Many parts on your vehicle are interrelated. Ignoring maintenance can lead to trouble: specific parts — or an entire system — can fail.

Neglecting even simple routine maintenance, like changing the oil or checking the coolant, can lead to poor fuel economy, unreliability, or costly breakdowns. It also may invalidate your warranty.

What maintenance guidelines should I follow to avoid costly repairs?

Follow the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule in your owner’s manual for your type of driving. Some repair shops create their own maintenance schedules, which call for more frequent servicing than the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Compare shop maintenance schedules with those recommended in your owner’s manual. Ask the repair shop to explain — and make sure you understand — why it recommends service beyond the recommended schedule.

Keeping your vehicle running at its best should not be complicated. Let our ASE–certified technicians take excellent care of your vehicle. Each of our technicians is up–to–date with the latest technology available.

Check Engine Light

The Check Engine Light indicates a problem that needs immediate attention. Bring your car in for service.

Doctor of Motors can help you follow manufacturers recommendation to get the most out of your vehicle.

We provide all standard maintenance services such as . . .

Alignments
Batteries
Brakes
Check Engine Lights
Inspections
Lubrication
Oil Changes
Smog Checks
Timing Belt Replacement
Transmission Service
Tune–ups

Auto Repair Indicators: Does Your Car Need Service?

Sun, 04 Jan 2015 09:18:00 GMT

Has your car developed a strange leak, smell, noise, or sensation? Call us , we’ll check it out and tell you what should be done.

Auto Repair Indicator #1: Looks Like Trouble

Small stains or an occasional drop of fluid under your vehicle may not mean much. But wet spots deserve attention; check puddles immediately.

You can identify fluids by their color and consistency:

Auto Repair Indicator #2: Smells Like Trouble

Some problems are under your nose. You can detect them by their odor:

Auto Repair Indicator #3: Sounds Like Trouble

Squeaks, squeals, rattles, rumbles, and other sounds provide valuable clues about problems and maintenance needs. Here are some common noises and what they mean:

Squeal — A shrill, sharp noise, usually related to engine speed:

Click — A slight sharp noise, related to either engine speed or vehicle speed:

Screech — A high-pitched, piercing metallic sound; usually occurs while the vehicle is in motion:

Rumble — a low-pitched rhythmic sound.

Ping — A high-pitched metallic tapping sound, related to engine speed:

Heavy Knock — A rhythmic pounding sound:

Clunk — A random thumping sound:

Auto Repair Indicator #4: Feels Like Trouble

Difficult handling, a rough ride, vibration and poor performance are symptoms you can feel. They almost always indicate a problem.

Steering

Ride and Handling

Brakes

Brake problems have several symptoms. Schedule diagnosis and repair if:

Engine

The following symptoms indicate engine trouble. Get a diagnosis and schedule the repair.

Transmission

Poor transmission performance may come from actual component failure or a simple disconnected hose or plugged filter. Make sure the technician checks the simple items first; transmission repairs normally are expensive. Some of the most common symptoms of transmission problems are: